I am in need of a service manual for a Yamaha Organ Model 415-I. Can anyone direct me to a source for this item?</P>
Thanks in advance, </P>
Thanks, I am watching there, but so far no results.
Also be on the look out for the service manual to the Yamaha D-85. This is the same organ as the Yamaha 415. I think the 415 was for the US market and the D-85 was for other markets. By the way, the "i" in the model number is just the designation for the cabinet style.</p>
I hope this helps.</p>
P.S. If you need an <u>owner's</u> manual, you can download one for the D-85 here. It is a PDF file.
Currently own: Roland Atelier AT-90, Yamaha 115D, Yamaha Clavinova CLP-970C, Yamaha PSR-S910
Thanks so much for the reply and info. I did not know these were the same organ, and the owner's manual was also needed. I downloaded it from the Yamaha site and is loaded with information. I have also located a service manual for it from a company in Washington. There is an issue with the 'solo' keyboard, several keys will not play. I believe I can figure it out once I have the manual and circuit info.</P>
Thanks again for the helpful information. </P>
The owner's manual has been a great help, and now that I have the service manual I can tell what is wrong with the organ. Do you have anysources for Yamaha circuit boards - the solo manual on the organ has 'printed circuit' contacts that have failed and I think the best way would be to replace the board. If you have any ideas, please advise </P>
Given the age of the organ, I suspect that you may have to find a donor instrument for parts, but someone here may have a lead for you.</P>
It's not what you play. It's not how you play. It's the fact that you're playing that counts.
New website now live - www.andrew-gilbert.com
Current organ: Kawai SR6 + Leslie 760 Walnut
Retired Organs: Lots! Including Hammond T402, T500 x 2, X5. Conn Martinique and 652. Gulbransen 2012 Pacemaker. Kimball something-or-other.
Retired Leslies, 147, 145, 760, 710, 415 x 2.
Describe the contacts. Often there are re-plating options or other things that can be done. </P>
Maybe you could post a photo of the board...</P>
It appears that I was premature in my diagnosis. The problem is deeper in the electronics than the keyboard. The fact that the key contacts are 'resistive' rather than a positive switching action had me blaming the keyboard.</P>
Usually many new keyboards use a set of two inter-digitated hard surface (black carbony looking) fingers for the contacts screened onto a circuit board material. A conductive silicon pellet held in a non-conductive silicone dome is pressed against each set of these fingers to make a contact. You can clean BOTH sides, the dome pellets and the circuit board with a Q tip and 99% isoprophyl alcohol. DON"T SCRUB !!!</P>
Two sets are used for each key. One pellet hits first then the other. The processor measures the time for this and that is used to calculate the velocity of key press.</P>
The keys are scanned in a matrix and each contact has a disconnect diode to prevent cross sneak paths between the octave sections.</P>
A COMMON problem that is fatal, is a crack in the circuit board going through one or more of the inter-digitated carbony fingers due to excess force (a lot) on one or more keys. If the carbony area is affected, the circuit board is history... if the crack is completely free of the fingers it can sometimes be bridged. Use one of those single white LED flashlights to "candle" the board for cracks.</P>