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Pulse Power Supply

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  • Pulse Power Supply

    I am in need of a pulse power supply that will accept 12V DC in and output 16V to 20V DC out for about 10 seconds. This is to help me with a problem with an accessory in my car. It would need to sense when it is being called upon to operate the circuit. Ideally it would be small and silent. Does such a thing exist?

  • #2
    Sounds like you need two things. You need a multipole (2 or 3 poles, 3 is common on an 11 pin pattern) delay-on-on relay, like those sold formerly by the National Controls Corporation (who has probably been put out of business, they made stuff in the USA). You need a socket to put it in that converts the eleven pins to screw terminals. Then you need a 20 VDC power supply that is powered by 12 VDC. I'll leave it up to you to google search for that. I know they make 12v supplies powered by 5 vdc. You would wire one pole of the relay to turn the power supply on for 10 seconds, and the second pole of the relay to switch your accessory from battery power to power supply power for the delay time.
    In the dark ages people used to have enormous DPDT relays to series connect two 6 V batteries to start a bus on 8 VDC, then put them in parallel so the generator could recharge them. They flipped when you hit the starter button. I bought one, when I owned a 6v system bus. Still have the relay, not the bus. 10 mpg was no problem in 1968.
    city Hammond H-182 organ (2 ea),A100,10-82 TC, Wurlitzer 4500, Schober Recital Organ, Steinway 40" console , Sohmer 39" pianos, Ensoniq EPS, ; country Hammond H112


    • #3
      Thanks, Joe!

      I can get along without the pulse/time delay and use a normal 12V DC to 18V DC power supply. The reason for the pulse is that in my car it is easier to connect the power supply to a circuit that is on all the time rather than switched with the ignition. But if I do this with a normal power supply, it will run all the time and drain my battery. That is, unless these new solid-state computerized power supplies actually sit there idle until you push the button and tell them it is time to send power to your accessory(?).


      • #4
        Hi Joe:

        I just had a thought - please tell me what you think. What about something like this?


        Thanks again!


        • #5
          These multi farad capacitors are sold for car audio systems to improve the boom. If you add a diode between it and the car system to keep this from trying to start your engine, that means your device is operating at 13.0 v instead of 13.6 right after startup, not the 16 v you specified. You could achieve equivalent results with a lawnmower battery at $36 for a whole lot more energy.
          city Hammond H-182 organ (2 ea),A100,10-82 TC, Wurlitzer 4500, Schober Recital Organ, Steinway 40" console , Sohmer 39" pianos, Ensoniq EPS, ; country Hammond H112


          • #6
            Many thanks, Joe!

            Please explain what you mean about adding a diode. Why would I do that if it would cause the 16-18 volts that I want to drop to normal car voltage? Why would the capacitor try to start my engine? I would install it as specificied by the supplier, except there would be a window motor where the amplifier would normally be.

            But PLEASE tell me more about the lawnmower battery! Before I thought about the capacitor, I thought about a battery first. Do they make 16 (or 18) volt lawnmower batteries? Would I just ground the (-) of the batter to the car and then connect the (+) to the power window system? Would the lawnmower battery and my car battery live together harmoniously?

            Thanks again for everything!!


            • #7
              Here is a 12V car lighter power supply that puts out 19V (30W), about $17:
              PWR+ Car Charger Pa3922u-1ara


              • #8
                Thank you, Wonk!