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Replacing Reed Switches on Allen MOS-1 (1203)

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  • Replacing Reed Switches on Allen MOS-1 (1203)

    OK, I have removed the top covers and the side cheeks, but I still cant remove the stop block(s). I need to replace a few reed switches which are toward the middle and bottom. The stop blocks seem loose, but i cant get the bottom of the units to release. Is there some screw or catch that I am missing?

    Also, looks like my capture batteries were previously removed. On what boards should i be looking to where the batteries had been installed?

  • #2
    Jbird604 should be able to help you. On one of my organs, there are 2 screws under the lower manual, but I'm not sure about your organ. It also depends on whether the instrument is stop tab or drawknob.

    Best wishes on your replacements. I've replaced a couple, and had to make an adjustment after one of them.

    Way too many organs to list, but I do have 5 Allens:
    • MOS-2 Model 505-B / ADC-4300-DK / ADC-5400 / ADC-6000 (Symphony) / ADC-8000DKC
    • Lowrey Heritage (DSO-1)
    • 11 Pump Organs, 1 Pipe Organ & 7 Pianos


    • #3
      The organ is drawknob.


      • #4
        Capture batteries may be on a caged chassis on the floor of the console.

        Allen 965
        Zuma Group Midi Keyboard Encoder
        Zuma Group DM Midi Stop Controller
        Hauptwerk 4.2


        • #5
          I don't know what else could be holding the drawknob towers in place other than screws in the bottom. If you have a card reader drawer or other accessory in place, you may have to remove it to see the last screw. I've never seen a 1203, but it should be similar to the 1105 I service, and I don't know of any tricks. On these large consoles they did use some creative ways of holding things together, so you might indeed find a hidden latch. Just be diligent and patient and you will find it.

          If the capture board was a DM-3, it would have had batteries soldered on the board originally, and they might be moved to almost anywhere. Follow the two wires that will be soldered to the pads on the board where the batteries used to be.

          If the board is a DM-2, it would have, as Admin notes, a set of four C-size rechargeables in a black cage with a little charger circuit. This battery pack/charger unit will be identifiable by the red and black pair of wires leading away to the DM board and by a jumper on the terminal strip that can be used to disconnect the battery from the charger, useful if the battery fails or in extended power outages to prevent the draining and destruction of the battery cells.

          If you have the four C-cell type, you can probably still get some of these from Radio Shack or somewhere. Modern AA size rechargeables may actually be just as good and may have the same or more amp capacity than the old C cells.
          *** Please post your questions about technical service or repair matters ON THE FORUM. Do not send your questions to me or another member by private message. Information shared is for the benefit of the entire organ community, but other folks will not be helped by information we exchange in private messages!