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Rodgers Lighted Drawknobs--Information, Please

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  • Rodgers Lighted Drawknobs--Information, Please

    How does one change a drawknob head on 1990s PDI vintage Rodgers lighted drawknob console? This console does NOT have the smooth straight drawknob stems. The stem has more of a "swirled"or spindled appearance.

    Is it possible to remove only the engraved face?

    Do the head and stem simply unscrew as a complete unit?

    Ultimately, I'd like to use the console as a controller for a VPO, dedicated to one particular sample set. (It has full MIDI and works well with Hauptwerk.) I will need to reconfigure the drawknob layout to accommodate the new specification. I will need to acquire new drawknob faces for some stops, while re-assigning drawknobs to a new position or to another division will work in many instances.

    Obviously, I haven't attempted to unscrew any of the knobs for fearing of damaging the unit. I haven't attempted to "pop out" a drawknob face, but that does look possible with a tiny screwdriver.

    This Forum has always been a source of invaluable information. I look forward to hearing from any and all.



  • #2
    Check if there are is a tiny set screw at the base of the drawknob stem. That was the case on a Rodgers console which I recently converted to LED lighting to give the console a fresh, clean look. The client later had Hesco engrave a number of the drawknobs so I can check on that process if no one here comes up with the solution. Cheryl at Hesco is a pleasure to work with. www.hescoincorporated.com/engraving.shtml I have no connection with them -- just a satisfied customer.
    www.kinkennon.com

    Comment


    • moller3x
      moller3x commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the information, John. Is it possible to change the drawknob faces without removing the lights?

      Does the conversion to LED lighting require soldering?

  • #3
    All the lighted Rodgers drawknobs I've seen do have a set screw holding the knob to the underlying metal shaft. It takes a very small hex key to loosen the screw, then the head will come off without any effort at all.

    Throughout the 90's I'm quite sure they used only one type of drawknob lamp, and that is the "long lead" 12 volt lamp that you now have to get from Syndyne. It's a small lamp to which some insulated leads about 6" long have been attached. To change them out, you must loosen the several wood screws that hold the drawknob tower in place. Find where the leads connect at the rear of the drawknob assembly and clip them loose. Pull the old lamp out the front of the shaft and insert a new one, threading the wires through the hollow shaft. Route them as the old one is routed and solder in place securely, being sure not to create any solder bridges or dislodge anything else back there.

    Later on, Rodgers used a type of lamp that fits into a tiny "wedge" socket in the drawknob shaft. You still have to use the hex tool to remove the head, but once you get it off you just pull it out of the socket and insert a new one, no soldering required.

    I see in some of Rodgers more recent brochures that they supposedly have "quick-change" lamps in the drawknobs now, presumably user replaceable. I can't tell you what those are, or if they truly are easily changed. Might just be talking about the wedge lamps in sockets that they have used for 12 or 15 years now.
    John
    ----------
    *** Please post your questions about technical service or repair matters ON THE FORUM. Do not send your questions to me or another member by private message. Information shared is for the benefit of the entire organ community, but other folks will not be helped by information we exchange in private messages!

    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Birds...97551893588434

    Comment


    • moller3x
      moller3x commented
      Editing a comment
      John,

      I appreciate the invaluable information, but I must admit the thought of replacing more than 100 bulbs via the rather involved process of soldering is quite daunting.

      This console is late 1990s, pre Trillium and it likely has the drawknob lighting you've described.

      My initial concern was the difficulty in replacing drawknob heads or faces, but given the age of the console it sounds like it might be wise to convert the drawknob lighting to LEDS.

  • #4
    Are you sure the bulbs are all burned out? Do some of them work? If nothing is working then you may well have a power supply problem to the lamps themselves; been there done that.

    Also this is very important. If you decide to replace the bulbs be absolutely sure you have disconnected all power to the console prior to doing your bulb replacement. Then let the unit sit for about 15 minutes before starting your work. We had done half of our bulbs on the 990, turning the console back on after each bulb replacement to test the new bulb, and then it happened. We changed a bulb, but forgot to unplug the console, even-though it was turned off we sent some sort of surge with the soldering iron through the system, and fried two resistors that took us another hour to track down. We always remembered to unplug after that.
    Until The Next Dimension,
    Admiral Coluch.

    -1929 Wangerin Pipe Organ Historian
    -Owner 1982 Rogers Specification 990 -Owner 1988 Rodgers 760

    Comment


    • moller3x
      moller3x commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the advice, Darth.

      The drawknob bulbs have not yet burned out. I just thought I should update them to LED since I have disassemble the drawknobs to change the faces anyway.

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