I have looked around on this forum, and nobody ever really seems to talk about ways to improve the finish of a older hammond... So lets do it!.</p>
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I have had great succsess using boiled linseed oil to remove the cracks and imperfections in my M2 and am about to begin the treatment on my DV... Does anybody else have any expert advice?.. I talked to an organ tech a little while ago and he said something about wax? heating? ... does anyone know about this?</p>
I stripped mine back to bare wood removing 48 years of damage and then used an oil based dulux high durability walnut varnish. I was told by a former Hammond employee that they used a coloured spray on lacquer in those days which is no longer available.</P>
I am gradually posting pics in to my gallery here and should complete them by the end of the week (I am just finishing the folding lids).</P>
My M-111 had a few nicks and scratches in the finish, and some chips out of the veneer and underlying particle board along the bottom edges of the sides. I fixed the latter by carving away a 1/4" deep by 1.5" high band along the whole bottom edge of each end, and installing a decorative molding in its place.</p>
As far as the overall finish goes, I first wiped the whole organ down several times with paint thinner to remove years of finger oil and grime, then lightly sanded with 320 grit sandpaper, followed by 00 steel wool. I then applied a single coat of Minwax Satin Polyurethane Varnish (I would have used Gloss, but my wife preferred a satin finish).</p>
I'd stay away from Restore-a-Finish, as a local dealer of that product told me that once you've used that, it's very difficult to ever prepare the surface to be re-varnished. There must be silicone, teflon, or wax in the stuff.
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hmmm.... never use linseed oil... it looks great... works great... but if you overapply... it makes a terribly mess... one i am still cleaning up.... :(
Polishing with rottenstone powder is the choice of pro's. It's a fine,abrasive powder you apply wet with a power buffer or a felt pad. You apply a small amount with a little bit of water to make a muddy paste. Polish until the surface starts to dry as you buff. Wipe off the gray residue and it looks like glass underneath. apply a good, rubbed in coat of good past wax to finish. It doesn't get any better. I've tried it on many finishes, it has improved all of them. It removes a very thin layer of oxidized finish, and levels the finish. You can even polish the scratches out of a plastic phono dust cover with it. I did every square inch of my C-3 with it, and it looks new.</P>
Of course, it's not going to do anything for deep damage, or finish peeling off. But if the finish is good, just dull, dry, or wavy, I would highly reccomend this process....I always wanted to know how they got that mirror smooth glossy finish, this is it!</P>
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