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  • Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



    Hi, I just picked up a Leslie 2101mk2 that I'm using with an XK-1 and was wondering about also incorporating my M-102's amplifer section.[I] </p>

    The 2101 provides the spinning horn and has a line output for the bass 'digital low rotor' that can be routed into any amplifier capable of providing decent bass. What I'd like to do (first) is use the amplifier section of my M-102 to handle that low end sound. In other words, I would simply be using the M-102's amp/speakers as the recipient of the of the Leslie 2101 low rotor line output.
    </p>

    So, any recommendations or links on how to wire up a line input to the M-102 amp that won't interfere with it's normal operation?
    </p>

    Down the road.. I'd like to use the 2101 as an insert effect on the M102 between the preamp and power amp stage. The ultimate goal here would be to have the M-102 sound routed through the 2101 spinning horn and route it's low end line signal back into the M-102's own power amp. Could be a tall order, though.. first things first with the XK-1.</p>

    Any insight is hugely appreciated!!</p>

    - Randy Kirk
    </p>


    </p>


    </p>
    Hammond SK-1 and A-100
    PR-40 Tone Cab
    Hammond Sounder III and J-412 (cheesy transistor madness)
    Leslie 122 and 330
    Yamaha C5 (big pianuh)
    Yamaha CP50
    '79 Rhodes Mark II
    Wurlitzer EP200a

    www.spaintheband.com

  • #2
    Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



    The 2101 also provides the digitallow rotor throughits built in 6" speakers. You might be able to get a line in to the M102 but I don't know if its amp and speaker can provide the low bass that the XK-1 can put out. You might trymaking a line out on the M102 and sending that to the 2101 which can play the full range. At some point add an amp like the 2121 to handle the low rotor and deep bass of the XK-1.</P>


    I have an M3 with reverbthat I split theamp's output on and sent one line to a DI with a 20dB pad into a mixer (for eq.) and then into my 3300 and 21System Leslies, the second loop through an L Pad and into the M3's speaker and the third line through another L Pad and into the reverb amp. I can dial in the M3's speaker and reverb volumes to blend in with the Leslies. It sounds great.</P>
    <P mce_keep="true"></P>


    Good Luck.</P>
    <P mce_keep="true"></P>

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



      Thanks for the input! I like the setup you describe and may try a more complex amp-mixing setup like that at a later time.
      </p>

      And, I'm aware the 2101's 6 inch speakers also output the low rotor sound.. it's got surprisingly decent mid bass for those late night "bedroom level" practice sessions but, for my taste, not nearly low end for band practice (and I've been blessed with a low volume band!)
      </p>

      To my ears the 22 watt amp on the M-102 reproduces it's own bass pedals respectably well, so I don't mind at all experimenting with the XK-1. And not *just* the XK-1.. I'm looking forward trying out the M-102's amp with Wurli and Rhodes EP samples from my Kurzweil!
      </p>

      So, I'm still on Plan A.. looking for a little info about wiring up a line input for the M-102.. Cheers!
      </p>
      Hammond SK-1 and A-100
      PR-40 Tone Cab
      Hammond Sounder III and J-412 (cheesy transistor madness)
      Leslie 122 and 330
      Yamaha C5 (big pianuh)
      Yamaha CP50
      '79 Rhodes Mark II
      Wurlitzer EP200a

      www.spaintheband.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



        I'm curious about this too, eticket!</p>

        I'm tired of digging out an amp for the times I play synth with the C3. Only ever use it for rhodes which would sound fine thru the PR40 or leslie when I get it hooked in.</p>

        As I think you mentioned elsewhere, or was it Green Eggs and Hammond here:http://organforum.com/forums/thread/96645.aspxthe rca plug on the swell box is a phono input. I can't remember if that old record player input was meant to come direct or from an amp.</p>

        I'll do some digging.</p>

        Green eggs would probably like to know too!</p>

        Cheers!</p>

        -Brendooon</p>

        </p>
        -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
        -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
        -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
        -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
        -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



          Here's the recipe for turning it into a line out....</p>

          http://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/G...omThePhonoJack</p>

          there's also a recipe somewhere to use it as an effects loop.</p>

          I found this in a quick search on the Hammond Zone forum:</p>

          <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; ">"On the expression pedal control unit of the organ amplifier you will find a
          RCA jack marked "RADIO-PHONO". If you have something that uses an RCA jack
          that you can attach as an input here like an ipod +adaptor, radio or
          keyboard, you can isolate whether the amplifier section is working
          correctly."</span></p>

          which suggests you can send a synth straight in here...</p>

          Ah! I found the bit in the manual:</p>

          [img]http://organforum.com/photos/brendon.../original.aspx[/img]</p>

          -B</p>

          </p>
          -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
          -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
          -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
          -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
          -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



            Here's the recipe for turning it into a line out....</p>

            http://www.dairiki.org/HammondWiki/G...omThePhonoJack</p>

            there's also a recipe somewhere to use it as an effects loop.</p>

            I found this in a quick search on the Hammond Zone forum:</p>

            <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia; ">"On the expression pedal control unit of the organ amplifier you will find a
            RCA jack marked "RADIO-PHONO". If you have something that uses an RCA jack
            that you can attach as an input here like an ipod +adaptor, radio or
            keyboard, you can isolate whether the amplifier section is working
            correctly."</span></p>

            which suggests you can send a synth straight in here...</p>

            Ah! I found the bit in the manual:</p>

            [img]http://organforum.com/photos/brendon.../original.aspx[/img]</p>

            -B</p>

            </p>
            -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
            -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
            -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
            -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
            -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101



              Hi Brendon,</p>

              Well, since posted this I moved the M-102 to my girlfriend's house and the A-100 has replaced it as our rehearsal studio as my primary "conduit" for creative signal routing. For now I'm using the RCA input for my guitar and rhodes (via a preamp), but it'd work just fine with any keyboard. </p>

              In the original post I wanted to 'break' the connection between the preamp and power amp, reroute the organ's preamp signal to the 2101mkII, then return the simulated low rotor output of the 2101 *back* into the organ's power amp/speakers (via the RCA input, I assume). In other words, use the 2101 as in insert effect. I still like this idea, but my knowledge of the "how to" is still a bit lacking at the moment, and in any event I'm putting it off until the new year after some upcoming shows and recording dates.
              </p>


              </p>
              Hammond SK-1 and A-100
              PR-40 Tone Cab
              Hammond Sounder III and J-412 (cheesy transistor madness)
              Leslie 122 and 330
              Yamaha C5 (big pianuh)
              Yamaha CP50
              '79 Rhodes Mark II
              Wurlitzer EP200a

              www.spaintheband.com

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101

                <SPAN style="WIDOWS: 2; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; BORDER-COLLAPSE: separate; FONT: medium 'Times New Roman'; WHITE-SPACE: normal; ORPHANS: 2; LETTER-SPACING: normal; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); WORD-SPACING: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px" class=Apple-style-span>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Hiya eticket!</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">I just did a search for console effects loops.</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Here's a schematic by Bob Schleicher:http://www.tonewheel.com/Schematics/effectsloop.jpg</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">And here are a handful of posts from Hammond Zone on Yahoo. After looking thru about 70 results (and plenty more to go!!) I called it a day!</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Chris Clifton commented:</P>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>Strangely enough I just did something like this on a C-3 only this
                morning. What I did was remove the signal feed from the top of the tone
                control potentiometer R40. This is the lead from terminal F on the AO-28
                to the tone control. I fed this signal to two jack sockets. The first
                one is line out/effects send and the signal is fed to the second jack. A
                normally closed switch on the jack sends the signal back to the tone
                control, and when a plug is in the socket signal from the plug is sent
                back instead. The signal levels here worked well with a pitch changer
                effects box with phono in/out sockets, (presumably levels comparable
                </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>with those used on domestic Hi-Fi equipment).</SPAN></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Chris</P></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">It seems from comments there too, that Tube/Valve amp levels may be too high for guitar stomp boxes, and then of course the guitar pedals don't return a hot enough signal. I don't know if that will become an issue or not.</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Kon Zissis in a reply about Wah pedal:</P>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>For those who did add a wah ewah pedal in their B3 C3 etc organs, I
                think that a send and return effects loop was inserted on to the
                output signal coming from the upper manual drawbar matching
                transformer so that the wha wha effect only worked with the upper
                manual , or perhaps there was an effects loop inserted further down in
                the AO28 signal path such as between the output of the tone control
                wiper and the grid pin 7 of the 12H7 output valve.
                All the best.
                </DIV></SPAN>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>Kon.</SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Kon again on inserting a reverb:</P>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>I have never had access to a CV organ but by looking at the schematic
                of the CV preamplifier on page 3-6 of the service manual, I think that
                a good place to try inserting the reverb unit or the effects loop
                might be just before the junction of the C11 250 pf capacitor and the
                R22 470 K or is it a 47 mega ohms ? ) resistor .

                This junction is where the output signal from the vibrato scanner goes
                so therefore you can try inserting the reverb unit or the effects loop
                between the output of the vibrato scanner and the junction of the C11
                and the R22.

                I am not sure what the signal levels are like at the output of the
                vibrato scanner , but I assume that the levels would not be very
                strong so therefore the 9 volt powered effects units might be OK here
                without being overloaded by strong organ signals.

                In order to avoid loading down the output from the vibrato scanner
                because of a low input impedance from an effects unit, I recommend
                that you add a simple FET based or an opamp based buffer stage with an
                input impedance of at least 1 mega ohms just before the reverb unit or
                the effects loop.

                I do not think that it is a good idea to place the reverb unit after
                the GG outputs and then send the output from the reverb unit on to the
                Leslie 145/147 amplifier because the signal levels from the reverb
                unit might not be strong enough to fully drive the Leslie 145 / 147 ,
                and the low 10 K ohms input impedance of the Leslie 145 / 147
                amplifier may heavily load down the output of the reverb unit which is
                intended to go to the very high impedance input grid of the V3 6SN7
                valve in the AO10 preamp or the V3 12BH7 valve in the AO28 preamp.
                All the best.
                </P></SPAN>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>Kon</SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">And on putting effects on one manual only (a great idea. Also should be a lower level signal.)</P><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none !important; PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Georgia !important; COLOR: rgb(102,102,102); CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-WEIGHT: bold; PADDING-TOP: 8px" class="subject root grey">Re: C3 effects send from only one manual?</DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">
                </DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content">Hi John.
                If you look at the middle of the AO28 preamp there is a rectangular
                box with two screws holting the lid in place. There are a number of
                wires entering thiis box from the top side.

                If you unscrew this rectangular box lid you will then have direct
                access to the two wires that come from the upper manual and the lower
                manual matching transformer.

                The wire from the upper manual is the yellow wire that is soldered on
                to the terminal A.
                The wire from the lower manual is the green wire that is soldered to
                the terminal B.

                To use the upper manual for the wha wha pedal then you can unsolder
                the yelllow wire from the terminal A. You can then wire up a length of
                shielded wire between the yellow wire and the "Send" socket.

                You can then wire up a soldered wire between the "Return" socket and
                the terminal A and thus have a simple send and return effects loop for
                the upper manual.

                PLEASE NOTE:
                The signal coming from the matching transformer is a high impedance
                signal which needs to go into a high impedance input with an input
                impedance of at least 270 K ohms or higher.

                Many wha wha pedals have a much lower input impedance such as 47 K
                ohms and this would seriously load down and thin out the sound of the
                upper manual signal.
                One way to avoid this problem is to built a very simple unity gain FET
                buffer right at the start of the Send signal which would have the
                isolated yellow wire soldered to it.

                The FET based unity gain buffer circuit shown further below might
                possibly work well.

                You can use the cheaply and readily available N-channel FETs such as
                a 2N5456 , 2N5458 etc .

                You can get the required supply DC voltage by tapping into the AO28
                power supply.

                You can try adding a resistor such as a 10 K , 20 K etc after the R97
                4.5 K ohms resistor which is at the +205 volts section of the power
                supply. You will need to experiment with the resistor value until the
                voltage at it's end is down to + 40 volts or below so that you can
                safely power up the N-channel FET.

                Alternatively you can build a separate 9 volts to 40 volts DC power
                supply for the FET. The 9 volts might be OK but a higher voltage will
                allow more clean headroom.

                Here below is a crude diagram showing how to wire up a simple
                N-channel FET unity gain buffer for the upper manual effects loop to
                prevent the upper manual signal from being loaded down and thinned
                out. Hopefully this diagram will appear properly without becoming
                jumbled up.

                The yellow wire from the upper manual matching transformer goes to the
                input of the FET buffer and the output of the FET buffer is the "Send"
                signal which goes to the external effects unit.
                The output from the external effects unit will then go on to the
                terminal A which is the non vibrato channel input of the AO28.
                A shielded wire will be needed for this as well because the terminal
                A is extremely sensitive to hum pickup.


                + 9 to 40 volts DC
                /|\
                |
                | + -

                o----| (---&gt; Ground


                | 100 uf
                |
                |
                |------o Drain
                Gate |
                Input o----||-----o-----&gt;--|
                0.1 mfd | | Source - +
                | |------o---) |---o 0utput
                | | 47 uf
                |||| ||||
                270 K |||| ||||
                to |||| |||| 10 K ohms
                1 M ohms |||| ||||
                | |
                | |
                o---------------o-----&gt; Ground

                All the best.
                Kon


                --- In[email protected], "garrick145" &lt;garrick145@...&gt; wrote:

                &gt; Does anyone know how? I've been using a wah patched in between the
                &gt; first tube and the tone control, but this still puts out too much
                &gt; level and the electronics in the wah distort nastily, so this would be
                &gt; an ideal solution - as well as enabling me to just wah the upper
                &gt; manual! I've already got shorting jacks fitted as a send and return
                &gt; so don't really want to have to invest in the trek box if this is a
                &gt; fairly easy mod.
                &gt;
                &gt; Thanks in advance
                &gt; John</DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content"></DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content"></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content">And a correction on the above! I posted both incase it wasn't all in the corrected one:</DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content"></SPAN></DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none !important; PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Georgia !important; COLOR: rgb(102,102,102); CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-WEIGHT: bold; PADDING-TOP: 8px" class="subject root grey">CORRECTION Re: C3 effects send from only one manual?</DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">
                </DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content">Hi John and everyone.
                I just realized that I made a serious error in my previous reply post.
                I wrote that the yellow wire on the terminal A is the upper manual
                signal wire and that the green wire on the terminal B is the lower
                manual signal wire.

                The terminal A is in fact the non vibrato channel input and the yellow
                wire on the terminal A goes to the vibrato "off" contacts of the the
                Vibrato Swell and the Vibrato Great switches.

                The terminal B is in fact the vibrato channel input and the green wire
                on the terminal B goes to the vibrato "on" contacts of the the
                Vibrato Swell and the Vibrato Great switches.

                I apologise for my error and for any confusion that this might have
                caused.

                To get to the upper manual signal wire in order to isolate it and to
                add the buffered Send and Return effects loop on to it you will need
                to unsolder the green colored upper manual signal wire that is on the
                matching transformer. The green upper manual signal wire is
                connected to the junction of the R2 1 mega ohms resistor and the C1
                470 pf capacitor.

                You can unsolder the green wire from this junction and then send this
                to the input of the unity gain FET buffer whose output goes to the
                "send" socket.

                The wire coming from the "return" socket can then go on to the
                junction of the R2 1 mega ohms resistor and the C1 470 pf capacitor
                that are on the matching transformer.

                Alternatively you can open up the box with the Volume Normal/ Soft
                switch, the Vibrato Swell switch and the Vibrato Great switch in it
                and to then tap on to the green upper manual signal wire in there.

                You can unsolder the green wire from this junction and then send this
                to the input of the unity gain FET buffer whose output goes to the
                "send" socket.

                The wire coming from the "return" socket can then go on to where the
                green colored upper manual signal wire previously was connected.

                PLEASE NOTE:
                When the 'Vibrato Swell' and the 'Vibrato Great' tablets are both set
                to the identical positions, the high impedance signals from the upper
                manual and the lower manual are both directly connected together so
                therefore the very low output impedance of the upper manual FET
                buffer or the low output impedance of the external effects unit will
                then directly load down and thin out the high impedance signal coming
                from the lower manual so therefore in order to avoid this I strongly
                recommend that you build an identical unity gain FET buffer for the
                lower manual signal wire so that the lower manual signal is also
                always buffered so that it will not be loaded down and thinned out by
                the low output impedance of the upper manual FET buffer of the low
                output impedance of the external effects unit when the 'Vibrato
                Swell' and the 'Vibrato Great' tablets are both set to the identical
                positions.

                If you want to modify the non vibrato channel to have the buffered
                send and return effects loop you can then tap on to the terminal A
                with the yellow wire or alternatively if you want to convert the
                vibrato channel to have the send and return effects loop you can then
                tap on to the terminal B with the green wire.
                This will allow you to add the external effects unit on to either the
                upper manual , the lower manual or to both manuals depending on the
                settings of the 'Vibrato Swell' and the 'Vibrato Great' tablets.

                The unity gain N-channel FET buffer shown further down below can use
                the cheaply and readily available FETs such as the 2N5456, 2N5458 etc.

                It is simple to build two of these , one for the upper manual and one
                for the lower manual.

                You can get the required supply DC voltage by tapping into the AO28
                power supply.

                You can try adding a resistor such as a 10 K , 20 K etc after the R97
                4.5 K ohms resistor which is at the +205 volts section of the power
                supply. You will need to experiment with the resistor value until the
                voltage at it's end is down to + 40 volts or below so that you can
                safely power up the N-channel FET.

                Alternatively you can build a separate 9 volts to 40 volts DC power
                supply for the FET. The 9 volts might be OK but a higher voltage will
                allow more clean headroom.

                + 9 to 40 volts DC
                /|\
                |
                | + -


                0----| (------&gt; ground
                | 100 uf
                |
                |
                |------o Drain
                Gate |
                Input o----||-----o-----&gt;--|
                0.1 mfd | | Source - +
                | |------o---) |---o 0utput
                | | 47 uf
                |||| ||||
                270 K |||| ||||
                to |||| |||| 10 K ohms
                1 M ohms |||| ||||
                | |
                | |
                o---------------o-----&gt; Ground

                All the best.
                Kon



                --- In[email protected], "kziss71" &lt;kziss71@...&gt; wrote:
                &gt;
                &gt; Hi John.
                &gt; If you look at the middle of the AO28 preamp there is a rectangular
                &gt; box with two screws holting the lid in place. There are a number of
                </DIV></SPAN>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>&gt; wires entering thiis box from the top side.</SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px" mce_keep="true">And Kon again:</P><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>
                <BLOCKQUOTE>
                <DIV style="BACKGROUND-IMAGE: none !important; PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Georgia !important; COLOR: rgb(102,102,102); CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-WEIGHT: bold; PADDING-TOP: 8px" class="subject root grey">Re: Guitar Fx pedals</DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">
                </DIV>
                <DIV style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 4px; PADDING-RIGHT: 4px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; CLEAR: both; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class="msgarea entry-content">Hi John.
                Although I do not know this for a fact , I assume that Jon lord's C3
                has an effects loop added some where into the AO28 signal path such as
                between the tone control wiper and the input grid of the 12BH7 output
                valve. The effects loop might possibly use a 12AU7 with variable
                adjustable send and return volume controls so that the high level
                AO28 signal can be lowered down with the send volume control so that 9
                volts powered guitar effects units can accept the organ signal
                without being severely overloaded and then the level can be boosted
                back up to normal AO28 levels with the return volume control.

                Such a set up will allow any extrnal effects units to be connected to
                the organ.

                Bob Schleicher's www.tonewheel.com website features such an effects
                loop circuit schematic:

                http://www.tonewheel.com/Schematics/effectsloop.jpg

                A normal stock Leslie 122 or 147 amplifier will not have enough gain
                levels to sufficiently amplify a guitar level signal but an original
                Leslie combo preamp pedal or a Speakeasy or a Trek II Leslie preamp
                pedal will have a built in preamp so that a guitar level signal and
                even vocals can be heard through the Leslie.
                All the best.
                </DIV></SPAN>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px"><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Georgia" class=Apple-style-span>Kon</SPAN></P></BLOCKQUOTE>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">That should be enough for one day!!</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">I reckon that lot would be useful to me too.</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">Pity I don't get this one emailed to me!!</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px">-Brendoon</P>
                <P style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 8px; BACKGROUND-COLOR: rgb(255,255,255); PADDING-LEFT: 8px; PADDING-RIGHT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; PADDING-TOP: 8px" mce_keep="true"></P></SPAN>
                -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
                -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
                -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
                -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
                -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101

                  Thanks for doing all that research.. I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference!
                  Hammond SK-1 and A-100
                  PR-40 Tone Cab
                  Hammond Sounder III and J-412 (cheesy transistor madness)
                  Leslie 122 and 330
                  Yamaha C5 (big pianuh)
                  Yamaha CP50
                  '79 Rhodes Mark II
                  Wurlitzer EP200a

                  www.spaintheband.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101

                    imagine if it actually works!!
                    -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
                    -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
                    -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
                    -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
                    -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Line input for an M-102 and big ideas for a Leslie 2101

                      I'm pretty sure Kon's diagrams are all messed up via text formatting, it'll take a little translation.
                      -1958 Hofner 550 archtop guitar -1959 C3 and PR40- -1964 Busillachio Harmonium- -1964 M101-
                      -1967ish Leslie 122- -1975 T500 (modded..chopped, and reassembled!)-
                      -DIY 760 FrankenLeslie/rat hideout-
                      -1980 Electrokey Electric Piano- -Yamaha electric Harmonium (early 80's?)-
                      -1990 Jansen GMF150 amp- -1992 Korg 01W/fd- -1992 G&L S-500 geetar.

                      Comment

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