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Advice on disassembling an M3?

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  • Advice on disassembling an M3?

    I have to adjust the magnets on the front side of the generator to get a couple of the tonewheels turning. So I have to lift the manuals to get to them. But I am going to do some mods while in the "disassembled state" as well, just because it will be in a good place to get to everything well. But, as I was taking the music stand base (I think that's what the manual calls it) I noticed that the original wood for the cabinet is busted. So, I plan to build new parts to replace parts that are busted. This particular M3 had been refinished in black lacquer which I hate. So I was going to refinish the cab anyway, but now I think I will just build the parts that I need. So.... as I have been disassembling, I have had some questions. Mainly, is there a way to remove the guts of the M3 without desoldering anything? I'd like to get it out in its original state before I start working on it. If that's not possible, then I'll do whatever I need to, but I thought you guys might have some insight as to what I need to do. As always, any info would be great ly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    Jarrett

  • #2
    Anybody?

    Well, looking at the inside of my M3, I can see that the manuals are probably not going to be an issue to remove. The Generator looks pretty simple too. But the wiring bundle running from the preamp to the manuals and generator looks troubling. I have yet to see a way to get that out without desoldering. Any suggestions?

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    • #3
      having just done this a couple months ago, I can't see a way of doing it without desoldering...you'd need about six guys to pick up all the parts at once to keep from breaking wires if you could! It's not too odious a job if you take your time & clear out excess solder as you go with a bulb - the looms are beautifully tied together and maintain the wire orientation so labeling is unnecessary. There are a lot of posts with pics here and on HammodWiki showing how to get through this, as well as other mods that you may as well do while it's apart. I can't imagine doing the foldback or tapering mods without having the manuals out separate on the bench. Good luck!

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      • #4
        AND - like I heard over and over before, you will know how everything works in one of these beautiful beasts when you're finished - that in itself is worth the time invested.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jpmagg3 View Post
          AND - like I heard over and over before, you will know how everything works in one of these beautiful beasts when you're finished - that in itself is worth the time invested.
          Can't say that enough. Nothing like pulling everything out and looking at it to get to know how something works. I got the fun task of tearing apart my non-working M2, and since it didn't have to go back together I pulled out every screw from the upper manual, just to see everything separated. Glad I didn't have to put it back together though =D
          Keyboards: 1972 Fender Rhodes Stage 73, M-111, M-3, A-100, M2 Desk(!), B3!
          Spinny things: Wurlitzer Tone Cabs (500 and 420), PR-40, 31W, 31H, chopped 31H, 125 (empty cabinet), 30A!!!

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          • #6
            In case you don't have it already, the service manual comes in very handy.

            http://www.archive.org/details/Hammo...delsMM2M3M-100

            I agree with everyone else...taking it apart and finding out how they work is half of the fun.
            '53 Hammond C2 w/JR20 tone cab
            '57 Hammond M3 w/'64 Leslie 125

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