Can't lift A100 keyboards

[dfcas]

I used Bob Mann's videos to attempt to replace the up and downstop felt in my A100. Upper manual went fine, but I can't lift the lower. It lifts about 3/4" and then binds, as if the screws on the lower rail are binding on the front stretcher.

I believe all bolts/screws are removed, because it moves that first 3/4" pretty freely. Before I get a jack and break something, is there something I'm missing?

In his video he simply lifts the manuals, but mine is stubborn.

Thanks, Dan

[Jaim]

4 long 9/16's bolts. Screw under the front rail. Move manuals back 1/2 inch before raising. Protect cabinet with thin cardboard.
Jim

[dfcas]

I have 2 longer bolts with a slotted head, and 2 thicker bolts with a 9/16 head out. I can't move the keyboards back 1/2 inch.

[Bobmann]

I used Bob Mann's videos to attempt to replace the up and downstop felt in my A100. Upper manual went fine, but I can't lift the lower. It lifts about 3/4" and then binds, as if the screws on the lower rail are binding on the front stretcher.

I believe all bolts/screws are removed, because it moves that first 3/4" pretty freely. Before I get a jack and break something, is there something I'm missing?
In his video he simply lifts the manuals, but mine is stubborn.

Thanks, Dan

Really, lifting only an inch or two will get you access to the screws that hold the front rail in place, and if you are just replacing felts this is all you need.

I just reread your post...there are 4 bolts from the bottom. 2 accessible from the front, 2 from the back. If memory serves, you need to remove the reverb tank to get the bolt on the right out. All 4 of these bolts must be removed.
The 2 screws that are on the top should be in place to keep the upper and lower keyboard together.

Some keyboards have more play in the wiring than others. You may have a short wire somewhere.

Lift as far as comfortable and block it in place. You may have to experiment with block sizes to get something that works.

Go around to the back and look for tight wires.
The ground wire at the far left as viewed from the back is sometimes pretty short. This is soldered to the last terminals on the TG terminal strip.
If not that wire, some other wire may be tight.

A really long shot is something on either side between the cabinet and keyboard. I once had one that was so jam packed with paper clips that I literally could not move the keyboards more than a fraction of an inch.

There is not a wire to a half moon that might be clamped to the underside of the keyboard, is there?


Bob

[dfcas]

Thanks Bob Mann for editing your post. The bolts in the back were still in place. I prove the old adage that nothing is foolproof if you have enough of a fool. :)

All went well and I seperated the keyboards looking for foam but could not find any. I found 3 rows of felt... Did i miss it?

[Bobmann]

Thanks Bob Mann for editing your post. The bolts in the back were still in place. I prove the old adage that nothing is foolproof if you have enough of a fool. :)

All went well and I seperated the keyboards looking for foam but could not find any. I found 3 rows of felt... Did i miss it?

LOL...I have always said that there is no such thing as foolproof...the best you can hope for is fool resistant...;)

Glad it worked out.

The foam you hear about is located in the rear of the keyboard, under the sheet metal cover.
The cover is VERY difficult to remove/replace without taking the keyboard completely out of the cabinet.
To be sure if your keyboard has foam or not...look for these rivets. If you see them, you have felt. No rivets mean foam.



Bob