Power Plug Inside a Hammond C-2 Cabinet

[mpnmatthews]

Hey Smart People!

I have a 1950 Hammond C-2 that I will be restoring, and I will be using a Neo Ventilator to send a signal to the JR-20 HTC.

What I would like to do is put the Neo Ventilator inside the cabinet - out of sight and out of mind. Set it and forget it.

But the Ventilator needs to be plugged in to power.

So so my question is, has anyone ever installed a convenience outlet inside their Hammond successfully? Can I just splice an outlet into the AC mainline or is there more to do?

I’d like for the outlet to power on when I flip the run switch.

Any ideas?

[Roger Memphis]

So my question is, has anyone ever installed a convenience outlet inside their Hammond successfully? Can I just splice an outlet into the AC mainline or is there more to do?

I’d like for the outlet to power on when I flip the run switch.

Any ideas?

Yes, Michael, you can do that, but don't tap in to the "AC Mainline." You would need to access the HOT side of the line downstream of the RUN switch. Use good wiring practices for your work. If you're not sure of yourself in that regard, get some help from someone who is. How are your soldering skills? On the line voltage power strip under the metal cover near the RUN motor, you would be accessing the Grey and Blue wires for the power to your outlet.
Roger memphis

[mpnmatthews]

Thanks a lot, Roger!

With your instructions, I should be able to manage.

I wonder if I should put in a outlet with a GFCI to protect my $500 Neo Ventilator. Would you foresee any problems with that?

[Roger Memphis]

Thanks a lot, Roger!

With your instructions, I should be able to manage.

I wonder if I should put in a outlet with a GFCI to protect my $500 Neo Ventilator. Would you foresee any problems with that?

Hi Again, Michael -
No, I wouldn't see any need for a GFCI. If I recall correctly, your Neo Ventilator is actually powered by a 12VDC wall wart which would isolate the device from any ugly stuff that might happen in the main 120 VAC voltage.
Roger Memphis

[mpnmatthews]

Good deal, Roger! Thanks for your help.

[Tim_at_Jonas]

While you are in there, check all of the mains wiring and make sure that none of the insulation is stiff and crunchy. I believe you'll be alright with one of that age, but it's wise to check.

Might also be a good excuse to go with a 3-wire power cord so you have a safety ground. On a B-3, we move some of the wires on the line panel to free up a terminal, and use it for the grounds. In the pic below, the stock line panel is on the top, the modded on the bottom. This will be a bit confusing, as we have replaced the original AC wiring coming up from the power inlet to modern black and white. The reds are live, after the run switch. One feeds the preamp, one fires a relay for power to the Leslies (so the Leslies are switched, but not drawing power through the run switch and associated wiring). I don't know how different this is from a B-2/C-2, so tread carefully.

[Sweet Pete]

This Vent stays plugged in and 'on' at all times.It powers up when I plug in the AC! Seven years and counting,no issues.
Leave them plugged in,no worries. What there IS to worry about would be plugging/unplugging inputs/outputs with it already powered on! That is NOT recommended.
This 'pedalboard' usually resides below my Nord Stage. It still works fine with the B2(usually a 147), cable runs are an exact match, they stay prepared at all times as well.
See the velcro for the halfmoon?

The blue and grey wires under the cover on the AC terminal strip are your ticket,just confirming what Roger already said!
The AC for my TrekII TP-2B perc unit is tapped there!

[Drawbar Dave]

If you are using the later black Neo Vent, the bypass relay is the bit that often goes wrong. Sent mine back three times before selling it and finding an original version. Like Peter, mine always comes on with the power strip.