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ok, to store my C3 in a garage in Florida??

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  • ok, to store my C3 in a garage in Florida??

    I've moved to Florida from Illinois and I don't have enough room in the house for my C3 and the PR40. i'm putting the B3 and Leslie in the house. Is it ok to leave the C3 in the garage for a year? Its a really nice one in almost perfect shape and it has the Trek II pre amp in it. We all know how humid it is in Florida. The garage is attached to the house and the garage is about 3 years old and is finished off inside but its not climate controlled. I'll be storing it for only a year in the garage and will play it often . so it will get some exercise.

    Last edited by carioca100; 05-07-2018, 09:40 AM. Reason: Added comments

  • #2
    The only thing I would be concerned about is whether the organ has foam in the manuals. I've lived in the southeast and have seen the results.



    • #3
      Could you put a dehumidifier in the garage?

      Also, Hammond installed heaters inside some consoles to try to control moisture problems, so it's definitely something they were concerned about.

      High humidity is also not good for speakers. I had to recone some recently that had been stored in a damp location, and there was rust under the gaskets on the speaker basket. Another had corrosion in the magnet gap.
      I'm David. 'Dave' is someone else's name.


      • #4
        The C3 is a 1958 so no foam.

        Yes , I can put a de humidifier in the garage and will do that. Even though the big door will be put up and down on occasion. I may get a damp chaser for the organ and speaker. I saw them on their web site.

        My tech guy has the heaters that Hammond used but he said they are on all the time and wasn't a fan of them so I didn't install them. He felt the damp chaser would be better as its a newer technology and is safer. So I might go that way.

        thanks David


        • #5
          You might want to fire it up periodically so the TWG doesn't bog down. Perhaps oil it before storage.

          One other thing: Maybe a mouse trap if there are any ports...

          1955 B3, Leslie 21H and 147. Hammond A100 with weird Leslie 205. 1976 Rhodes. Wurlitzer 200A. Yamaha DX7/TX7. Korg M1. Yamaha C3 grand, 67 Tele blond neck, Les Paul Standard, PRS 24, Gibson classical electric, Breedlove acoustic electric, Strat, P Bass, Rogers drum kit, Roland TD 12 digital drums, Apollo quad, older blackfaced Fender Twin, other amps, mics and bits and pieces cluttering up the "studio."


          • #6
            Yes, Hammond's heating element was crude, but effective.

            I worked on a 1947 CV that's spent most of its life in humid eastern NC in a church built in the 1890s. Heater still works, and the organ is in good shape.
            I'm David. 'Dave' is someone else's name.


            • #7
              i picked up an A100 in corpus christy that was stored in a non climate controlled garage 3 years ago , one manual had foam and never was protected from dust. i cleaned it and shine it up and worked good for me


              • #8
                Nice find Have you figured out yet what year your dealing with on the A100?
                Practise the theory...realize the practical
                Hammonds L100 /A100 /B3 Leslie 147 and 122 Yamaha E352 Key board driven in OVATIONS 15" 40 watt power


                • #9
                  it is a 1964 year model, i forgot to mention that the organ was stored for more than 25 years without being oiled or played. it was so dirty i had to take it completely apart to clean it. i even opened the foam manual to remove the foam, thank God i did it...the foam was dry and it had already fallen apart like coffee granules and one resistance wires had already began to deteriorate but i was able to scrape it and re insulate it with finger nail polish and has not giving me any problems. before i put the metal cover though, i added lots of string to hold the resistance wires tucked very nice.


                  • #10

                    FWIW, our old ProKeys shop was a 1600 s.f. building behind our house. No heat, one wall A/C unit, and we kept at least 8-12 Hammonds/Leslies in there all the time.

                    I'm not totally convinced that "humidity" is really an issue, although others might not agree.

                    If you question this, contact Todd (b3nut) or Wes. The last 3 Hammonds and 4 Leslies went out of here (2015) after not being turned on, played, or any work done on them since 2003. And that part of the room was HUMID - I assure you.

                    I believe that covers (sheets), and proper lubrication are mandatory in this (Tampa, FL) climate. Todd and Wes can tell you a lot more - there were some issues w/these instruments after so many years of medical problems - which prevented me from doing the normal maintenance that I would have (should have) done.

                    Pictures of our shop are at the ProKeys link. See for yourself.
                    Best to all,

                    Steve Leigh
           - ProKeys pages
           - STAX pages
           - 16 track 2" Analog studio


                    • #11
                      hi Steve, wow what a great piece of Hammond information. Am I correct that you are no longer in business and were in Tampa? I've moved to the Venice area and would like to have a resource if needed.



                      • #12
                        Originally posted by carioca100 View Post
                        . . . My tech guy has the heaters that Hammond used but he said they are on all the time and wasn't a fan of them so I didn't install them. He felt the damp chaser would be better as its a newer technology and is safer. So I might go that way. . . .
                        I don’t know if it’s really a new technology and safer. Both use electrical current through a resistance to generate heat. The Hammond is 24 watts and the smallest Dampp-Chaser is 12 watt and 18 inches long. The largest that will fit in the Hammond is 25 watts and 36 inches long. The 3 ft. long Dampp-Chaser would have the equivalent heat output of the Hammond, but it may be difficult to install. The best installation is on the bottom shelf since heat rises. Mounting it on the inside of the top shelf would not be of much value. As far as safety, I believe they are identical, except if you believe surface temperature is an issue, the Hammond will definitely be hotter-you don’t want to touch it. The Hammond is porcelain construction. The Dampp-Chaser looks like a plastic/PVC. Will it out-gas and cause some key contact or other problems?--I don’t know.

                        I am convinced that installation of a heater is a good idea. Anything to raise the air temperature inside the console is good. The farther that the air temp is above the dew point temperature, the less a chance that condensation will occur and result in oxidation of key contacts and other organ metal parts. I know the old Hammonds have gone years in nasty environments with no problems. Why not treat them like a “baby” now and give them the comfort they deserve. Since the heater is on all the time, some may argue that when the organ is running, the heat from the heater plus added heat of the preamp/AO-28/AO-10 is not good. The great Hammond engineers obviously thought of this in their design, so it should not be a problem. My B3 has a 122 Leslie and two PR-40’s powered directly from the console. As has been mentioned in this forum, I installed a buffer relay, energized by the run switch, to eliminate the current from the run switch. The relay is a DPDT. I powered the heater through the extra set of (normally closed) contacts. This was an effort to “baby” my B3 so that; when the run switch is on, the heater is off; to keep the preamp cooler with no extra heat supplied by the heater. Whenever the console is off, the heater is powered at all times. This “added feature” is not necessary, but my late ’55 B3 needs that extra bit of loving care it deserves.

                        For information, the pics below show the Hammond Heater and the Dampp-Chaser
                        Click image for larger version

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                        John M.

                        Additional “Off Topic” note:

                        I have a conventional Heat Pump/AC with an add-on wood boiler that I installed when I built my house in 1980. It has been 38 years and the boiler is in like new condition. The boiler gets extensive use each year. During Jan/Feb this year I burned 3 full cords of wood (4’X’4’X8’). The boiler is made of ¼” steel plate. The manual says to drain the water each summer as condensate will corrode the, creosote covered, inside steel walls. The creosote has chemicals that are very corrosive when exposed to a high humid/condensate environment. Instead of draining the water each summer, I bought a 220 ohm wire wound heat sink encased power resistor that I mounted on an aluminum plate. I set this resistor/plate inside the boiler from May through October. It dissipates 65 watts at 120 VAC. The heat raises the 55 gallons of boiler water (and boiler walls) 5 degrees above the ambient basement air temperature and completely eliminates any potential corrosion problems.
                        Last edited by MihevicB3; 05-14-2018, 10:57 AM.
                        1956 Hammond B3
                        1963 Leslie 122
                        Two Pr40’s
                        One JR-20 (for fluid reverb signal)
                        Hamptone LEQ3B
                        Trek II Reverb
                        Trek II String Bass