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Fixing a gouge in the wood

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  • Fixing a gouge in the wood

    What is the best material to use to fix a gouge in Hammond.? I have an a 100 that has a gouge on the side about 1 inch just looking for the best material to buy to fix it. Thank you

  • #2
    Click image for larger version

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    You'll need a piece of veneer over the top. What I'd do is cut the new piece of veneer to fit, and finish it. Overfill the gouge with putty, and press the new piece of veneer over the top, making sure to squeeze out any air. Then using a water-soaked paper towel to wipe away the excess putty.

    If you don't care to make it look perfect, just fill it with putty right to the surface and stain the putty (a day after it cures.)


    • #3
      Where do you get the new veneer - so you’re basically gluing the veneer to the gouge?


      • #4
        how deep is the gouge ..did it go all the way through the veneer?
        Practise the theory...realize the practical
        Hammonds L100 /A100 /B3 Leslie 147 and 122 Yamaha E352 Key board driven in OVATIONS 15" 40 watt power


        • #5
          Yes it did probably a quarter inch at its deepest

          - - - Updated - - -

          Well maybe a sixth of an inch


          • #6
            Originally posted by jwb1231970 View Post
            Yes it did probably a quarter inch at its deepest

            - - - Updated - - -

            Well maybe a sixth of an inch
            Patching a gouge is an art to make it inconspicuous.

            Do you want to frfinish the whole cabinet or is patching your goal?

            Either way, the best you can hope for is making it less obvious.

            Using veneer to patch a small place is the most difficult and will be very obvious, IMO due to the fact that you will never be able to get a piece of veneer that matches the color or grain pattern. You will also have to cut the veneer from an area larger than the gouge to get a smooth veneer plug that matches the shape, then you will have to fill the gouge with some sort of filler to a level that will allow the new veneer to match the surface. Then glue in place, sand smooth, then stain as described below.

            Then there are those shellac filler sticks. Take a look at them, most places that sell paint or stain carry them. I have not had good luck with these, as there are limited color options and I do not like the look of the results. They also take some trial and error.

            There are many wood puttys on the market that work pretty well and will take stain. Use the deepest color putty that you can find, like a walnut.
            Fill the gouge with putty and sand (not too smooth) and stain. I have gone to the extent of scratching the patched area with a heavy needle to match the grain pattern.
            You can experiment with stain colors to get a good match.
            I found that Minwax brand Dark Walnut mixed with Red Mahagony (4:1 ratio) works pretty good, although you will need to adjust depending on your particular cabinet. If that is too dark, try Special Walnut and Red Mahagony instead.

            Then comes the finish. The patched area will obviously not match the finish of the rest of the cabinet.
            The best course of action is to refinish a part up to a corner or some other feature with a seam. If you were patching a car, for example, and were patching a door you would repaint the whole door to achieve a seamless finish.
            I would use some brushing lacquer and a very fine brush and apply only to the patch, trying not to get much on the original part. It will take several applications until the patch stops absorbing and is shiny.
            Now you can use very fine sandpaper...400 or finer, and it is best to use it wet.
            Get it smooth then apply a finish to the whole area.
            I would recommend rubbing down the whole area with odorless mineral spirits several times first.
            You may be experienced with spraying Lacquer, in which case you can feather in a small spot where the patch is and wet sand to blend.
            Instead of lacquer I would ust a rub on finish like wipe-on poly or Tung Oil.
            You may see that the results are so good that you may consider treating the entire cabinet. If you use that same stain first to hide any other superficial scratches, the results will look like new.

            In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
            In reality, there is.
            '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
            H-324/Series 10 TC
            '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
            Look at some of my rescues:


            • #7
              stick close to Bobmans suggestions - he is the expert He guided me through a complete restoration of a B3 - Like every one here knows patching and making it fit is the art part. so here is what I did the Bobman does not tell you - yet as it pertains to patching. This of coarse assumes you do not want a full restoration. No one makes a patching or filler material to match your A100 only you can do this. Here is what I did or would do to your patch

              sand back a working area 3" by 3" to the bare veneer You might choose to use laquer thinner (dont let it drip will remove all the laquer it touches)
              - dont sand too hard and go through the veneer
              - when your ready apply a wood filler - I suggest using a filler which will match the lightest part of the veneer and over fill so you get to sand it smooth Try not to get the woodfiller lighter than the lightest color of the veneer or too dark
              - When you sand it smooth go no further than the 1 inch gouge - you want to be able to see it well defined - it should now be full or filled and standing out
              - Here is the artsy part . take a walnut colored pencil crayon - the darkest color you see in your veneer and one shade lighter than the darkest color and a peach color. Now find the grain pattern of the veneer and trace the continuation of that grain pattern over the gouge until you have trouble seeing where the gouge is. Seal the area with brush-able lacquer and redraw the darker lines if they blend too easily seal it again. Now follow Bobmans recommendations to top coat with Lacquer .

              Click image for larger version

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ID:	606574 This is a pic of the B3 I restored if you look close at the edges I had a lot of repair to the veneer where I use the filler technique above and the front lower edge of the bench was also wood filler - big tear out

              good luck
              Practise the theory...realize the practical
              Hammonds L100 /A100 /B3 Leslie 147 and 122 Yamaha E352 Key board driven in OVATIONS 15" 40 watt power