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Replacing the Hammond decal on the fall board

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    #16
    Originally posted by carioca100 View Post
    To remove the fall board, does it come out by removing the six screws in the front or is there some other way to remove it.
    In addition to the screws on the front, the rail is held to the frame with some very stubborn double sided tape. I have never removed a front rail without the manuals being removed, but they should at least be separated so the top manual can be tilted back. This will require the removal of the music desk and the long bolts that secure the manuals to the cabinet frame.
    1st born: 1958 B3 & 1964 Leslie 122
    Most Proud of: 1938 Concert Model E & 1948 Leslie 31A
    Daily Workhorse: 3 Manual Rodgers running Hauptwerk 4.2
    New Kid on the Block: Hammond Novachord (year not determined yet)

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      #17
      I've ordered the replacement decal for my A100 which at this very moment in time must be winging its way across the Atlantic to the UK. But it has struck me that I don't know the best way of removing the worn remains of the original, presumably a water slide one held with some kind of varnish. The rail is in excellent condition and doesn't need a repaint. Any advice please? Is there a magic solvent that will take the decal but leave the underlying paint OK?

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        #18
        Originally posted by carioca100 View Post
        To remove the fall board, does it come out by removing the six screws in the front or is there some other way to remove it. Hopefully not removing the manuals.

        I'd like to get it out to properly remove the old decal and apply the new one.

        thanks
        The manual does not have to be raised or removed, I have done this many times.
        As stated, the adhesive is really stubborn. Work the rail off from the ends carefully. You can put a wide screwdriver at the end blocks and pry off, then gently work your way down. There is no need to use any type adhesive when re-installing.

        To re-install, I use a piece of wood that covers all the keys and use it to push all the keys down and hold them down as I put the rail in place.

        Bob
        In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
        In reality, there is.
        '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
        H-324/Series 10 TC
        '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
        Look at some of my rescues:
        https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

        Comment


          #19
          If an A100 lower rail can be removed without raising the manual to expose the screws,then it`s a different animal from the B or C case organs.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by skydawg View Post
            If an A100 lower rail can be removed without raising the manual to expose the screws,then it`s a different animal from the B or C case organs.

            Since he is looking to replace the Hammond logo, I assume that only the upper rail will be removed.

            I should have qualified my statement and said that the upper rail can be removed without raising the manuals.
            The lower rail require lifting the manuals a couple inches.

            Sorry for the confusion.

            Bob

            PS: I also assumed that when the posted referred to the "fall board" that he was actually referring to the front rail, as the A100 does not have a fall board.

            As far as removing the decal, this was discussed in the above posts, and there are many suggestions.
            In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
            In reality, there is.
            '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
            H-324/Series 10 TC
            '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
            Look at some of my rescues:
            https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Bobmann View Post
              As far as removing the decal, this was discussed in the above posts, and there are many suggestions.
              My apologies. I had actually read the whole thread too! In one ear, out the other...

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by alpine View Post
                My apologies. I had actually read the whole thread too! In one ear, out the other...
                Please excuse me if I sounded snarky, it was not my intention. I just did not feel like re-typing the previous information.

                Whatever method you decide to use, just keep close eye as you proceed so as not to remove the original finish. Any chemical that you use should be tested on the back to see if it dissolves the paint or scratches the finsh excessively. This is a process that cannot be reversed...

                Bob
                In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
                In reality, there is.
                '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
                H-324/Series 10 TC
                '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
                Look at some of my rescues:
                https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Bobmann View Post
                  Please excuse me if I sounded snarky, it was not my intention. I just did not feel like re-typing the previous information.

                  Whatever method you decide to use, just keep close eye as you proceed so as not to remove the original finish. Any chemical that you use should be tested on the back to see if it dissolves the paint or scratches the finsh excessively. This is a process that cannot be reversed...

                  Bob
                  Hammond players are NEVER snarky Bob!! I read your response with good intent I have been experimenting with methylated spirit, which seems to be reasonably effective if you persevere and not bring the underlying surface off. I think you call it denatured alcohol over there. And if I get bored because the process is too slow, I can drink the rest...

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                    #24
                    If it's the same stuff, it'll make you very sick as punishment for not paying the sin tax.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by alpine View Post
                      Hammond players are NEVER snarky Bob!! I read your response with good intent I have been experimenting with methylated spirit, which seems to be reasonably effective if you persevere and not bring the underlying surface off. I think you call it denatured alcohol over there. And if I get bored because the process is too slow, I can drink the rest...
                      Well, the "denatured" part makes it poison, so would not try a taste test.

                      Denatured alcohol (ethanol with additives that make it poisonous) is a good solvent to try. It will be a bit more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol, but should be ok.
                      1962 Hammond A102

                      Comment


                        #26
                        All good suggestions and I watched Bobmanns video. thanks for that and it was very well done. I am hesitant to remove the fall board as I fear I will damage it trying to get it off since it has some sticky backing to it. It's in good condition , don't want to pry on it wrong and regret what I've done. At this point I'm considering doing the decal replacement .....or maybe not.
                        Appreciate everyone's help here

                        Comment


                          #27
                          It's not a fallboard though.

                          Can you get some mineral oil behind it? That will free up the adhesive. Goo Gone and WD-40 have sufficient mineral oil in them for this.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by carioca100 View Post
                            I am hesitant to remove the fall board as I fear I will damage it trying to get it off since it has some sticky backing to it. It's in good condition , don't want to pry on it wrong and regret what I've done.
                            At this point, if you really want to replace the decal, I would remove the music desk as well as the manual mounting bolts so you can tilt the upper manual up and away from the lower manual. At which point it will become EXTREMELY easier to remove the front rail from the upper keybed frame.

                            Don't take the easy way out. To paraphrase a line from J.R.R. Tolkien: short cuts make for long delays!
                            1st born: 1958 B3 & 1964 Leslie 122
                            Most Proud of: 1938 Concert Model E & 1948 Leslie 31A
                            Daily Workhorse: 3 Manual Rodgers running Hauptwerk 4.2
                            New Kid on the Block: Hammond Novachord (year not determined yet)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by carioca100 View Post
                              All good suggestions and I watched Bobmanns video. thanks for that and it was very well done. I am hesitant to remove the fall board as I fear I will damage it trying to get it off since it has some sticky backing to it. It's in good condition , don't want to pry on it wrong and regret what I've done. At this point I'm considering doing the decal replacement .....or maybe not.
                              Appreciate everyone's help here

                              Just a point of interest here, but it is not written in stone that you need to remove the front rail to replace the decal.
                              I seem to remember doing this many years ago, but then again what I had for dinner last night is hazy so take that with a grain of salt.
                              Since total keyboard removal and disassembly is SOP when I refurbish an organ, the rail is always already off so I guess it is assumed that everyone does it this way.

                              Although it is a bit easier when the rail is off and on the work bench, the decal can be put in place while the keyboard is attached with little difficulty. This will eliminate any concerns of bending the rail or causing any other damage when disassembling.

                              Bob
                              In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
                              In reality, there is.
                              '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
                              H-324/Series 10 TC
                              '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
                              Look at some of my rescues:
                              https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

                              Comment

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