M3 flutter tones

[geldo79]

Hi,

on my m3 I have two flutter tones. They are tonewheels 52 and 64 (d#). Thus they are on the same drive gear. Each tine I put some oil onto the drive gear, the fluttering disappears, but after two weeks or so, it's back. Does anyone have an idea what might help....without removing the twg?

Greetings Christian

[tiredoldgeezer]

Sometimes, oil alone may not suffice.
There can be a buildup of crud occur. I use the Steve Leigh (RIP) method of dual hypodermics. One with acetone, the other with oil.
While the inverted generator runs - or if you have access from the top -- squirt the acetone directly onto the suspect bearing. This will clear out everything.
Then oil from the other needle.
Brought many generators back to life with such a technique.

[tpappano]

I have a M100 and a M3, both had several fluttering tones which apparently were caused by sticky spring clutches on the tonewheels. If you were to tilt up the TG assembly so you can slide your hand underneath, with the TG running you should be able to touch a wheel with the tip of a finger. A very slight pressure should stop the wheel from turning. If you meet much resistance the springs are probably sticky. Some of mine were so gummed up that pressure from my finger slowed down the motor before the springs would release. I used a squirt CRC "QD" electrical contact solvent on the springs and they immediately freed up with a little on-off-on-off pressure from my finger. This would stop and start the wheel, clearing the gunk from the mating surfaces so they could slip freely. It took a couple of these treatments to get some of the clutches clean. I took two of the plastic spray can extension tubes and spliced them together to extend the reach deep into the bowels of the TG. This stuff also seems to flush oil right out of the bearings, so you want to be careful with your aim 8)

[geldo79]

Thanks for your suggestions. Well...concerning sticky spring clutches: I tried to stop the tonewheels and manually turned the synchronous motor. I could not feel any resistance. On the other hand, I think it must have to do with the drive gear. Otherwise, it would be a big coincidence that tonewheels 52 and 64 have the same problem. Not? Or will a sticky spring clutch on tonewheel 52 will also be noticed on tonewheel 64 due to the connection via the drive gear?

[KC9UDX]

Since adding oil solves the problem, I'd check to make sure the oiling system is providing oil the way it should.

[Bobmann]

You say that you put oil on the gears...what about the bearings? Do you also oil the bearings?
Just putting oil on the gears indicate that the oil may be acting as a cushion to reduce the slop in the gears.
You obviously have raised the TG enough to gain access to the underside, so I would suggest a close examination of both gears, to make sure there is no missing teeth or debris in the gear teeth that may cause interruption in rotation.
I have witnessed a damaged tonewheel causing a sound like you describe, but I do not think that is your problem. However, examination of the tonewheels would be easy when you are under there looking at the gears.
If you have access to some plastic safe contact cleaner, such as CRC brand "QD" you can thoroughly clean the bearings, gears, and clutch without harm to the rest of the TG. Rotate as you spray to make sure the gears are cleaned all around.
Then oil the bearings and see if the problem is fixed.
If not, it is possible that one or both of the bearings may be worn. A patch could be to put grease on the gears instead of oil. This may help mask the problem for a longer period, but not fix it.

Bob