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  • newbie T 524 questions

    Hello All, I just bought a T 524c organ...I have never seen another Hammond before, so I have no context. And I do not know how to play a keyboard instrument; yet. I have spent a couple hours reading past post on the forum, but I still have some questions.

    The cassette deck is non-functional and ugly so I want to remove it. My question is: will there be any adverse result from cutting the wires soldered to the back of the deck and just putting shrink tube on them (individually) and leaving them disconnected to anything ?

    Next question is about the noise. And first I should add that this came from the second owner of 8 years duration who oiled the unit every year. But there is a constant clickity clack when the organ is running and it is made worse if I connect the belt for the scanner. I know it is difficult to discuss a subjective thing like noise level when you cant listen to my Hammond but, is noise normal ?

    And lastly, even with the 'soft' tab depressed, and with the expression pedal at its quietest position, the organ is fairly loud. How qietly should one of these be if in proper order ?

    Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    Just a comment on the volume question. If the volume level is constant regardless of the pedal position, I would suspect a burned out light bulb. This bulb is located under the expression pedal.
    Have: Hammond 340212 Elegante
    Had: Hammond T-311 and 333114 Colonnade
    Never will have: Laurens Hammond 350 w/ 2 - 751 Leslies

    Comment


    • #3
      The pedal will produce a range of volume, its just that at its lowest level via the pedal is still louder than I would like for use in my apartment. Yes I can use headphones but then I dont get to hear the Leslie.

      Comment


      • #4
        When the light dependant resistor in the swell pedal assembly goes bad (and they often do with age) the "sweep range" of the pedal decreases drastically.
        Current organs: AV, M-3, A-100
        Current Leslies: 22H, 122, 770

        Comment


        • #5
          The rattle is the drum scanner...... it's a poor design, most of them do it.
          Even a rebuild might not fix it.
          You can either learn to live with it, or just remove the rubber belt and live with no vibrato/chorus
          Current:
          1971 T-202 with Carsten Meyer mods: Remove key click filters, single-trigger percussion, UM 16' drawbar volume correction. Lower Manual bass foldback.
          Korg CX3 (original 1980's analogue model).
          1967 Leslie 122 with custom inbuilt preamp on back panel for 1/4" line-level inputs, bass & treble controls. Horn diffusers intact.
          2009 Marshall 2061x HW Plexi head into Marshall 4x12 cabinet.

          Former:
          1964 C3
          196x M-102
          197x X5
          197x Leslie 825

          Comment


          • #6
            Here's a few tips:

            Do a naptha flush on the TWG, followed by 50/50 naptha/Hammond oil, then 100% Hammond oil.
            Allow a few weeks for the fresh oil to penetrate the bearings.

            Replace the motor run capacitor IMMEDIATELY - it is prone to exploding, sending toxic PCB oil and burnt paper everywhere.

            Search the forum for handy modifications such as:
            Line Out (Pin 24 on Main Amp - at least it is on a T200).
            Remove key click filters.
            Improved bass response.
            Proper 2nd & 3rd harmonic percussion with single trigger.
            Effects Loop (Pin 3 on Recovery Amp).

            You might want to consider investing in a Neo Instruments Mini Vent II - the best Leslie 122 simulator pedal, this will be a vast improvement over the internal Leslie, and allow better headphone practise
            Current:
            1971 T-202 with Carsten Meyer mods: Remove key click filters, single-trigger percussion, UM 16' drawbar volume correction. Lower Manual bass foldback.
            Korg CX3 (original 1980's analogue model).
            1967 Leslie 122 with custom inbuilt preamp on back panel for 1/4" line-level inputs, bass & treble controls. Horn diffusers intact.
            2009 Marshall 2061x HW Plexi head into Marshall 4x12 cabinet.

            Former:
            1964 C3
            196x M-102
            197x X5
            197x Leslie 825

            Comment


            • #7
              OK, I got down on the floor with a flashlight to look at the pedal. I see the pedal unit is just bolted in place with 4 small bolts and there is what looks like a white plug to disconnect. So I can remove the unit and is there a way to test performance ? And I see there is a switch on the side of the pedal that can be moved outward....but doing so has no effect that I can hear. Waht is that switch supposed to do ?

              Comment


              • #8
                That switch is for autorhythm or something
                Current:
                1971 T-202 with Carsten Meyer mods: Remove key click filters, single-trigger percussion, UM 16' drawbar volume correction. Lower Manual bass foldback.
                Korg CX3 (original 1980's analogue model).
                1967 Leslie 122 with custom inbuilt preamp on back panel for 1/4" line-level inputs, bass & treble controls. Horn diffusers intact.
                2009 Marshall 2061x HW Plexi head into Marshall 4x12 cabinet.

                Former:
                1964 C3
                196x M-102
                197x X5
                197x Leslie 825

                Comment


                • #9
                  Start here - read the entire site and download all of the schematics.

                  https://www.keyboardpartner.de/hammond/t-mods.htm

                  WARNING: When servicing/modifying the T500 series, the rhythm unit on top is prone to dropping and smashing the circuit boards below! Brendan on this forum knows how to avoid this issue
                  Current:
                  1971 T-202 with Carsten Meyer mods: Remove key click filters, single-trigger percussion, UM 16' drawbar volume correction. Lower Manual bass foldback.
                  Korg CX3 (original 1980's analogue model).
                  1967 Leslie 122 with custom inbuilt preamp on back panel for 1/4" line-level inputs, bass & treble controls. Horn diffusers intact.
                  2009 Marshall 2061x HW Plexi head into Marshall 4x12 cabinet.

                  Former:
                  1964 C3
                  196x M-102
                  197x X5
                  197x Leslie 825

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I get the rattling even with the scanner belt removed. The owner for the last 8 years says he oiled once a year, so would you say the naptha flush is still indicated for lessening that clattering ? And by 'flush' do you mean apply the naptha on all the shafts, gears, mechanisms on the TWG ?

                    Thanks for the warning about the motor run capacitor; I had not seen that mentioned anywhere in all the old posts I have been reading. I will look that up in the repair manual and see where it is located and what it takes to do the R&R.

                    Comment


                    • Papus
                      Papus commented
                      Editing a comment
                      The naptha (lighter fluid - but check the composition first, some jurisdictions have banned naptha) goes into the two funnels same as Hammond Oil, but you want to flood that sucker - too much is a good thing in this case. Place towels over the circuit boards below as there will probably be a LOT of gunk come out.
                      Naptha is highly volatile and toxic, it can knock you out and asphyxiate you - use proper ventilation, safeguard against flames, sparks and other ignition sources.

                      The motor run cap is a HUGE safety issue with self-starting motors and it is sadly under-reported.
                      Your cap is at least 44 years old, if not more.
                      Signs of imminent failure are: wobbly notes, entire organ not quite up to concert pitch, cap is bulging.
                      It's the big metal can in front of the motor.

                      I changed my cap when I noticed my T202 was 20 cents flat. Imperceptible unless you've got perfect pitch, but noticeable when recorded with other fixed-pitch instruments

                  • #11
                    The only other issue with the organ is that the pedal sustain cannot be canceled...is there a 'usual suspect' for that ?

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Is the motor run cap the 4 " tall flat sided aluminum canister with red, yellow, and black wires coming out the top.... just to the front side of the organ from the motor ? Where would be able to buy a brand new antiquated Hammond component for replacement ?
                      Last edited by Two Finger Tony; 08-03-2019, 09:40 AM.

                      Comment


                      • Papus
                        Papus commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Yes that's it.
                        DO NOT buy an old Hammond cap - you're just replacing one volatile component for another.
                        You need to identify the cap value.
                        I think it's 3 microfarads in 110V/60Hz Hammonds - but don't take my word for it - it will be written on the cap and on the motor.
                        The voltage rating must be sufficient to handle the total voltage swing of two phases. 450V should be enough in a 110V system.
                        I've got a 450V cap in my 240V/50Hz T202 and it's working fine.
                        Brand new, non-toxic caps are commonly available at electronics suppliers.
                        Ceiling fan run motor caps are similar enough to be used.
                        Note: you must get a RUN cap, NOT a starter cap. The cap is required to CONTINUOUSLY shift the mains phase to make the synchronous motor keep kicking over. Look for “continuous cycle” or simply “motor run capacitor”. Specifically speaking, the Hammond synchronous motor is called a split-phase type.

                        Also note: when installing the new cap, in most States it is ILLEGAL to solder mains connections. You must use suitable mechanical fastening methods such as wire nuts, a terminal strip with screw-down action, or rated crimped spade lugs.
                        The reason is because in the event of a malfunction, a solder joint may overheat, causing a loose mains wire to touch the chassis or other components.

                        IF the old cap is already leaking, wear rubber gloves and handle it with extreme caution.
                        I'd wrap it in absorbent paper towel and store it in a zip loc bag ready for proper disposal.
                        DO NOT throw the old cap in the bin, it is a controlled substance and probably subject to strict handling and disposal procedures in your State.
                        Get rid of it properly.

                    • #13
                      Search Tonewheel General Hospital for caps etc.
                      Larry K

                      Hammond A-3 System, Celviano for piano practice
                      Retired: Hammond BV+22H+DR-20, Hammond L-102, M-3, S-6, H-112, B-2+21H+PR-40, B-3+21H, Hammond Aurora Custom, Colonnade.

                      Comment


                      • #14
                        Just ordered a run cap and a bottle of Hammond oil from Tonewheel General; turns out they are right here locally in a suburb of Kansas City. And there is another mail order Hammond outfitter in the area also ! I did not know that KC was such a Hammond hot bed...and I read that Hammond serial # 1 was sold in KC way back at the start of the Hammond Co.

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          First Hammond info:
                          https://www.hammondclub.nl/nl/menu/H...hsonian-museum

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