Forum Top Banner Ad

Collapse

Ebay Classic organs

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Restoring a H100 series - parts list needed

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Restoring a H100 series - parts list needed

    Hi folks

    I've today acquired a one owner H112. Nice. With 122rv too

    It hums loudly, unplayable. I'm guessing electrolytic capacitors. Also vibrato drops volume by 50% when turned on. Brush cymbal makes white noise even when off...

    So some work needed.

    I'd really appreciate any advice and any parts lists for Mouser etc. Hard to identify exactly what to change routinely.

    Any ideas and recommend?

    Many thanks folks!

    Dan (UK)

  • #2
    Try un-plugging and re-plugging all the connectors you can find, tubes too, there are a bunch! Use Deoxit if you have some. Gunky connections can cause all manner of crazy symptoms 8)
    Tom in Tulsa

    Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720

    Comment


    • #3
      OK, first thing is to oil it, that's the TWG, scanner and motor. That oil can be working its way in while you do the rest. Next, change the motor capacitor. Then all the electrolytic caps in the power supply. If you read back through the many threads about H's, you'll find that some owners have changed every electrolytic in the organ - that's over 70 of them.

      Busbar lube and clean, drawbars lube and clean. Valve sockets need to be checked and cleaned. I haven't come across De-Oxit D5 in the UK but there are alternatives. If you're spraying anything plastic you obviously need to ensure that the product is plastic safe.

      Cymbal and brush - that white noise is leaking somehow, you'd need the schematics to diagnose this and find the faulty part(s) but it's probably going to be simple.

      Vibrato dropping volume - vibrato recovery amp issues? Again, read through the schematics and troubleshoot accordingly.

      You'll already be aware that the H is not the most reliable of the TWG Hammonds, serial numbers above 15000 are the better ones. So there will be a fair bit to do, but the big upside is that a good H is a great organ.

      Bottom line: Get schematics and oil first and start working from there.
      It's not what you play. It's not how you play. It's the fact that you're playing that counts.

      New website now live - www.andrew-gilbert.com

      Current instruments: Roland Atelier AT900 Platinum Edition, Yamaha Genos, Yamaha PSR-S970, Kawai K1m
      Retired Organs: Lots! Kawai SR6 x 2, Hammond L122, T402, T500 x 2, X5. Conn Martinique and 652. Gulbransen 2102 Pacemaker. Kimball Temptation.
      Retired Leslies, 147, 145 x 2, 760 x 2, 710, 415 x 2.
      Retired synths: Korg 700, Roland SH1000, Jen Superstringer, Kawai S100F, Kawai S100P, Kawai K1

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi folks

        I've bought some caps for the PSU....

        And a couple of bias resistors

        I'd be so grateful for any information or anecdotes on H organs ....

        In anticipation!

        D

        Comment


        • Papus
          Papus commented
          Editing a comment
          Change the motor run cap immediately.

          It is filled with carcinogenic PCB oil and is liable to explode.

          Replacement caps can be sourced from ceiling fan components suppliers, shouldn't cost more than a few pounds.

      • #5
        Originally posted by andyg View Post
        OK, first thing is to oil it, that's the TWG, scanner and motor. That oil can be working its way in while you do the rest. Next, change the motor capacitor. Then all the electrolytic caps in the power supply. If you read back through the many threads about H's, you'll find that some owners have changed every electrolytic in the organ - that's over 70 of them.

        Busbar lube and clean, drawbars lube and clean. Valve sockets need to be checked and cleaned. I haven't come across De-Oxit D5 in the UK but there are alternatives. If you're spraying anything plastic you obviously need to ensure that the product is plastic safe.

        Cymbal and brush - that white noise is leaking somehow, you'd need the schematics to diagnose this and find the faulty part(s) but it's probably going to be simple.

        Vibrato dropping volume - vibrato recovery amp issues? Again, read through the schematics and troubleshoot accordingly.

        You'll already be aware that the H is not the most reliable of the TWG Hammonds, serial numbers above 15000 are the better ones. So there will be a fair bit to do, but the big upside is that a good H is a great organ.

        Bottom line: Get schematics and oil first and start working from there.
        All good advice...the only thing I would say is that the bussbar clean is not something I would suggest attempting to do unless absolutely necessary...in the case of missing tones, for example. Anyone who has attempted to gain access to the bussbars on an H will understand; this is something I would not even attempt anymore and I have done it.
        I sent Daniel a PM...FYI, other causes of hum in the H was the fluorescent light in the music rack of early models. They later changed to incandescent because the ballast caused hum.
        Also if any of the metal covers over the PC boards are missing, there will be hum. The covers act as a Faraday shield.
        If someone added a grounding plug and wired it incorrectly, there will be hum.
        I would also disconnect the Leslie to see if that is a source.

        Other than all those suggestions, it will take someone with electronics knowledge and a schematic to trace down the problem.
        Bob
        In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
        In reality, there is.
        '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
        H-324/Series 10 TC
        '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
        Look at some of my rescues:
        https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

        Comment


        • #6
          i also own an h-100 that i am restoring , my problem is a bit different , i had to remove all of the drawbars because they were full of gunk and had lots of scratching sounds and some had no contact .
          the other problem i have is the keys ! a lot of them had cracks in them and some were just snapped off , so i had to replace or repair some of them , and the pre-set keys has another issue , the older version of hammond pre -set keys had metal lips underneath for them to engage and set , mine has some sort of plastic type lips which most of them have missing or chipped off tips .
          i would like to know if pre set keys from another older hammond with metal lips can be installed in their place .

          Comment


          • #7
            Also note that early H series were produced with a melamine key with a different profile. The standard kind have a front that tapers away from you at a 45 degree angle. The melamine type have almost no key front, and the taper is very slight away from you. These were problematic and were prone to warp and crack. Production was not long, and I think I have seen these keys on early X-66 as well, if my memory has not failed me from 55 years ago. Ebay has people parting out H series rather frequently you should be able to find some or all to replace with some patience.
            Larry K

            Hammond A-3 System, Celviano for piano practice
            Retired: Hammond BV+22H+DR-20, Hammond L-102, M-3, S-6, H-112, B-2+21H+PR-40, B-3+21H, Hammond Aurora Custom, Colonnade.

            Comment


            • #8
              hi ! thanks for the tip , what about the pre set keys! as i mentioned , mine have a plastic type material as lips underneath for them to set and engage , the tips have chips and cracks , can any other hammond pre set keys with the metal lips underneath be used to replace the ones that i have .

              Comment


              • #9
                Keys from any of the consoles are not interchangeable with your H.
                All the diving board keys used the plastic tab in the presets.
                This is the 2 types of keys used in the H. Both are made from the same thermoplastic material, and is not very strong. Breakage of these keys is very common.
                I have many sets of diving board keys, including presets, I would be happy to let you have as many as you want, just pay postage. I have never sent packages to Canada, I need to look at what it may entail. PM me with address details if you are interested, and I will look into it.

                In case you have not seen them, there are some videos of the H here
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0nxkwR7CiI
                That is part 1 of 4

                Let me know about the keys, as I am on the process of cleaning out the shop...I am out of room and I am making routine trips to the dump.

                Bob
                Attached Files
                In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
                In reality, there is.
                '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
                H-324/Series 10 TC
                '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
                Look at some of my rescues:
                https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

                Comment


                • #10
                  Hello folks

                  Well, changed the power supply caps today and the three main electrolytic on the amp chassis

                  Much better. Still noisy though....amp noise from harp boards, cymbal/white noise leaking when it's volume up, and a substantial volume drop upon engaging any vibrato

                  Otherwise, looking healthier

                  Any ideas?

                  Thanks in advance one and all!

                  Daniel

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    The motor cap seems to have four wires - was expecting two...any ideas?

                    Also any other faultfinding advice appreciated. Vibrato switches surely shouldn't change volume level?

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      Originally posted by baldwin 46c View Post
                      i also own an h-100 that i am restoring , my problem is a bit different , i had to remove all of the drawbars because they were full of gunk and had lots of scratching sounds and some had no contact .
                      the other problem i have is the keys ! a lot of them had cracks in them and some were just snapped off , so i had to replace or repair some of them , and the pre-set keys has another issue , the older version of hammond pre -set keys had metal lips underneath for them to engage and set , mine has some sort of plastic type lips which most of them have missing or chipped off tips .
                      i would like to know if pre set keys from another older hammond with metal lips can be installed in their place .
                      I have an H300 series in which all the black keys were either cracked and wobbling or broken off completely. Apparently a bad run of keys at Hammond (or whoever supplied them). Fortunately at the time I was parting out an X77. Its keys were of a different production run and were fine, so they replaced all the black keys in the H. And it is not an easy process at all, especially gaining access to the lower manual. I've worked on every brand and a Hammond H series and the X77 and the worst, as if they were never intended to need servicing. I would not recommend pulling the busbars for any reason. If you have intermittent notes, and shifting the bars doesn't help, the best method I've found is to tip the organ onto its side and vigorously play big handfuls of keys for a few minutes. This dislodges all lot of debris...plus it's fun to watch the pastor's reaction when you perform this during a church call. :)
                      Another inherent problem with the H series involves missing percussion footages, and is most likely broken resistors which are welded to a separate bus bar INSIDE the upper manual assembly, and is an absolute *bitch* to access.('scuse my French) And attempting to repair these broken resistors is useless unless you intend to replace ALL of them, simply because more are apt to break over time. I've given up on repairing mine and am contemplating buying a Trek II percussion unit and then rewiring the percussion tabs to send the footages to the Trek unit. But I'm still contemplating this... As you know, such contemplation takes time...and beer...and time....
                      Over the years: Hammond M3, BC, M102, B3, four X77s and three PR-40s, a Thomas Electra and a Celebrity, three Fender Rhodes, Roland HS-10, HP-2000, HP-600, RD-600, JV-880, a thing made by Korg (?), two Leslie 910s, 122, 257, 258, 247, two 142s, and three custom-built Leslies. Wow, way too much money spent!

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by Daniel777 View Post
                        Hello folks

                        Well, changed the power supply caps today and the three main electrolytic on the amp chassis

                        Much better. Still noisy though....amp noise from harp boards, cymbal/white noise leaking when it's volume up, and a substantial volume drop upon engaging any vibrato

                        Otherwise, looking healthier

                        Any ideas?

                        Thanks in advance one and all!

                        Daniel
                        Changing out any electrolytics found will help greatly, In the first attached pic you can see that numerous caps have been changed out. On the 8 PC boards mounted on the rear of the tab rail you'll find numerous 1.0uF/100 volt caps that can also be replaced and will greatly improve things. Of course, again, any electrolyics found on these boards should also be changed out. Molex connectors are known for bad crimps on the pins and if you find any like this it's best to remove the pin and solder the wire in place. When I change out a Molex connector I always tin the wire and then solder it once it's crimped. It's a little extra labor but guaranteed not to fail later on. As you can see in the other attached picture, there were several intermittent pins in this Molex connector, so I pulled the pins, cut them off, and crimped on new ones. The leaking white noise from the brush/cymbal board could easily be just an adjustment of the onboard trim pot. The drop in volume in the vibrato could be several things, such as a problem in the drive or recovery boards, or maybe a scanner that's not turning. Maybe a broken belt? Tracking down hum is never easy, but you can isolate most problems by checking to see if the expression pedal affects the hum or not. If it does, then the problem is likely before the expression circuitry; and usually after the circuitry if it doesn't. Well, good luck!

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	recap 1.JPG
Views:	371
Size:	167.9 KB
ID:	663513Click image for larger version

Name:	molex redo.JPG
Views:	313
Size:	113.2 KB
ID:	663514
                        Over the years: Hammond M3, BC, M102, B3, four X77s and three PR-40s, a Thomas Electra and a Celebrity, three Fender Rhodes, Roland HS-10, HP-2000, HP-600, RD-600, JV-880, a thing made by Korg (?), two Leslie 910s, 122, 257, 258, 247, two 142s, and three custom-built Leslies. Wow, way too much money spent!

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Hello folks

                          Well, did the 1uf caps in the transistor preamps, and the 10uf electrolytic etc.

                          Turned out the volume drop was a cracked 500uf capacitor on the vibrato drive board. Replaced it with 1000uf as available...sounds ok. Any issue with bigger value?

                          General hum and noise still an issue....

                          Also, no reverb at all. Seems like reverb recovery amp must be faulty. Any ideas guys?

                          Thanks again folks....will take some photos. Total cost so far about £35!

                          Dan in England

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Hello again folks
                            ...
                            I'm considering changing transistors in preamps - does it make much difference? Which modern transistor types did you choose? I've heard several types suggested but I've not much idea...

                            I've already done a load of electrolytic capacitors, and propose to fit larger ones in the power supply, to reduce hum. Still got some.

                            Celeste scanner rattling...I understand grease and possible bearing needed?

                            I Have overall hum still, and rustling in one speaker. Also noisy scanner and high noise floor when expression pedal open

                            Any advice or suggestions gratefully received!

                            Blessings from England

                            Dan

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X