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  • Hammond X-77 repair/maintenance

    So I just got a Hammond X-77 (pre GT) with the matching Leslie last week and proceeded to dive into it yesterday. For the most part everything seems to work, without any major issues. Had a few things I wanted to inquire about however.

    First thing: In anticipation of getting replacements for my broken preset keys I pulled the top off yesterday, and with a decent bit of trouble detached the module with the tabs and drawbar assemblies as described in Bob Mann's H series repair video. First question on that, does anyone have a reasonable way to get that tab/drawbar module out of the way? He hangs it off the wooden rail in the back, but that method doesn't seem to transfer to the X-77. Second question on that, he doesn't cover accessing the keys on the bottom keyboard at all.

    Second thing: After reassembling the organ, I noticed that I lost somewhere in the vicinity of five to six drawbars. One in one bank, and the other four or five were in a row in another bank. Is this likely just broken solder joints from me moving the whole thing, or could it be something else?

    Third thing: This concerns the percussion. All of the tabs on the percussion work in both their primary mode (sounding for as long as you hold the key) and their secondary mode (with the quick attack and immediate decay). What's odd is all the keys seem to work perfectly in their primary mode, but when in secondary mode some of them produce either a very faint sound or nothing at all. I also noticed that if I hit a chord that includes one of the faint/dead keys, none of the other working keys in the chord make a sound.

    Fourth thing: I realize this has been addressed before, but figured I'd throw it in here anyway. I know the X-77 is famous for producing unwanted humming/buzzing/fireworks/etc..... For the most part this one isn't TOO bad, but was wondering if anyone had any tips for me that could help with this issue that doesn't involve chasing ghosts. I've already gone inside and cleaned all the molex connectors with plastic safe CRC QD contact cleaner, and disconnected the brown molex connector that powers the fluorescent console lamp. Is there anything else, short of testing and, likely replacing a gazillion components that could help this issue? I know the Leslie itself isn't the issue as the previous owner replaced the power amp with two Rodgers amps that, when I plugged a guitar into them, they were absolutely dead silent. I suppose perhaps, the issue could lay in how it's been rewired. I was able to find a description of the signal that each color/pin is running, but nothing on where they should be routed in respect to the Leslie, so I just kinda guessed, and seemed to guess right.

    Any help with some or all of these things would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, and sorry about the novel, -Kevin M.-
    Hammond H-324
    Hammond M3
    1976 Fender Rhodes Stage 73
    Orla Prestige Combo Organ
    MicroKorg
    Wersi Pianostar T2000
    ARP Omni
    ARP String Ensemble

  • #2
    There's lots of good information in this thread
    https://organforum.com/forums/forum/...-owners-corner

    Note that this thread was started in 2004 and the OP never followed through on his promises, but the thread contains discussion and remedies for many of the problems encountered with this model.

    As to your specific questions:
    • If you don't already have the X-77 service manual, find one and get it. You'll need it. In addition to the schematics and circuit descriptions, it has disassembly instructions for servicing the manuals.
    • If the drawbars were working prior to disassembly, you likely broke wires.
    • The percussion problem you describe is likely dendrites. Search the Forum using the terms dendrites and percussion.
    • Hammond worked out some of the noise issues with the GT model. There's a discussion of remedies in the thread referenced above.
    -Admin

    Allen 965
    Zuma Group Midi Keyboard Encoder
    Zuma Group DM Midi Stop Controller
    Hauptwerk 4.2

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    • #3
      I have reviewed the above mentioned thread. The last post was on 2005. My X-77gt has issues that I need help with other than Rice Krispies! I love the organ, and with some work, it'll sound great!

      Comment


      • Admin
        Admin commented
        Editing a comment
        Check again. Last post in the thread above is 10/6/2018

    • #4
      X-77gt HELP!

      Comment


      • Admin
        Admin commented
        Editing a comment
        Sorry, this is the Organ Forum, not the Psychic Network.

    • #5
      Hello!

      I am starting to restore a X-77 that I got for a buttered slice of bread.

      3 questions please:
      - Fluorescent tube for the music stand: what model is that?, my X-77 doesn't have one, I would install a LED if possible
      - Pedalboard: the volume is really loud compared to the keyboards, how do I balance that with the rest?
      - Pedalboard: bass pedal pusher square end type, the pedalboard is missing some. Can you recommend a place to buy online (I am located in canada)?

      thank you!

      Comment


      • #6
        1. Don't bother with getting the fluorescent music light working. They were a major source of noise and hash. Going to LEDs is the path you should take.
        2. If you don't have a Service Manual, get one. All bass notes, pedal and manual, are split into their own bass channel. There's thumbwheel control for bass level on the bass amplifier board internal to the organ.
        3. Sorry, I don't have a source for these, but Hammond used the same pushers on all their 25 note pedal boards.
        -Admin

        Allen 965
        Zuma Group Midi Keyboard Encoder
        Zuma Group DM Midi Stop Controller
        Hauptwerk 4.2

        Comment


        • #7
          Originally posted by Admin View Post
          1. Don't bother with getting the fluorescent music light working. They were a major source of noise and hash. Going to LEDs is the path you should take.
          This is *probably* the path to take, but LED is no guarantee of clean RF footprint. I had thought that and now am stuck with a small shop light that can't be used with my radio running because it tears up the signal so badly.
          Whether or not it interferes with your organ will remain to be seen. It's not necessarily the LED, it's the step-down from line voltages, I suspect.
          Of course, we already KNOW a fluorescent will have hash (for much the same reason, I suspect). You may be stuck with incandescent for the best signal environment. Dunno for sure.

          Comment


          • Admin
            Admin commented
            Editing a comment
            That's a good point. You would definitely want to use a low voltage LED strip with the wall wart power supply located away from the audio circuitry. It also should be possible to use the organ's internal DC supply to power the LEDs and bypass an external supply altogether if you have the requisite knowledge.

            The fluorescent music light was not powered in the conventional way. It used a high frequency inverter and flyback transformer to power the tube with a high voltage. Certain lamps worked without a problem, while others produced a tremendous amount of RF noise, especially as the lamp aged.

        • #8
          There are a few videos on YouTube regarding the replacement of keys on H100 series organs which would be the same process for an X77.

          The drawbars in an X77 are different from other vintage Hammonds. Each drawbar connects to a thin copper band which in turn connects to a terminal where the drawbar's corresponding wire is soldered. Actually, this was one of the better ideas Hammond had come up with to remedy the often times that a wire would come off off the drawbar's solder point due to the repetitive of the drawbar's in and out motion. This scheme is also used in H100s and I've never found one of these copper bands to break. Most times it's the wire that has come off of the terminal and yes, it's likely due to being jostled around after having disassembled.

          The percussion problems are either dendrites, or in most cases I've found, a problem with one or more resistors that are inside the manual assembly. These are sixty-one 100k resistors (one for each key) that act as voltage dividers. They are tack welded directly onto a common buss bar (this buss bar is separate from upper manual's the 16 internal bus bars). The other end of each resistor has a short piece of 30g or so wire soldered onto it and the other end of this wire is tacked onto its corresponding key contact. In my experience (I've owned and modified four 77s), in most cases the resistors become brittle over time and crack, either greatly changing their resistance (producing a weak note) or have broken in half and therefore severed the connection completely. In other instances the tack weld at the buss bar has broken and the note is dead.
          Getting to these is not easy, but that being said, what's the point of trying to repair any that you find since more are likely to break later on. If these resistors are, in fact, the culprits then that's the dilemma you'll also face. The attached pic shows a few of these resistors that have been removed from the common buss and still dangle from the small-guage wire that ties them to the key contact.

          I really like X77s. But, they have their inherent problems. Hum, hiss, crackling, prone to CB traffic (at least that's not a big problem anymore), missing percussion notes, reverb hum, pedal sustain issues, brittle sharp keys that often break off, and white keys that have yellowed over time. And then there's that Leslie... I won't get into that albeit to say it takes some work to get it sounding and spinning like a traditional Leslie.

          Oh, there's a service manual currently on E-bay from $45.00.

          Well, I hope this helps and keep us advised on your progress.
          Over the years: Hammond M3, BC, M102, B3, four X77s and three PR-40s, a Thomas Electra and a Celebrity, three Fender Rhodes, Roland HS-10, HP-2000, HP-600, RD-600, JV-880, a thing made by Korg (?), two Leslie 910s, 122, 257, 258, 247, two 142s, and three custom-built Leslies. Wow, way too much money spent!

          Comment


          • #9
            Oh, I also just got rid of the fluorescent bulb and transformer unit in all my X77s. No, it won't get rid of all the hum and hiss but it can add to it. A strip of those soft white LEDs would be a great alternative. You could power them with either a wall adapter or a small 12 volt supply mounted down where the fluorescent's supply was.
            Over the years: Hammond M3, BC, M102, B3, four X77s and three PR-40s, a Thomas Electra and a Celebrity, three Fender Rhodes, Roland HS-10, HP-2000, HP-600, RD-600, JV-880, a thing made by Korg (?), two Leslie 910s, 122, 257, 258, 247, two 142s, and three custom-built Leslies. Wow, way too much money spent!

            Comment


            • #10
              Thanks for the feedback fellas!

              I would like to know something: my X77 has a headphone jack underneath (I do not know if it is standard or an add-on). I currently use it to output the sound to guitar amps and hear the organ. This works ok until I can find an X-77L or 6-pins Leslies (for which a previous owner had 4(!) output installed). When I plug in headphiones instead of the wire going to the amps I get no sound. Is it because my headset is with a stereo connector or because there is no headphone amp? THX as always

              Comment


              • #11
                AFAIK, the X-77s did not have factory installed headphone jacks installed. Perhaps later models did, mine certainly did not. The X-77 is a four channel organ so fitting a headphone jack would require an internal mixer to combine the channels. The channels are Vibrato, Non-Vibrato, Percussion, and Bass and they are not stereo channels and would probably mixed down to a single channel.

                I'm guessing that the jack you're plugging the phones into is a line level output jack that is not intended to power headphones. Try connecting using a headphone amp.
                -Admin

                Allen 965
                Zuma Group Midi Keyboard Encoder
                Zuma Group DM Midi Stop Controller
                Hauptwerk 4.2

                Comment

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