Different types of waterfall naturals

[handyczech]

I am working up my ambition to change all 122 playing keys on my BV. The naturals all seem somewhat lower in the middle, as though almost imperceptibly concave instead of barely convex. Almost all the sharps have some immoveable crud on the sides, which I suspect is from the melting effects of fingernail polish. This organ was played for years in a small rural central Illinois Baptist church.
I bought a full set of keys from a grinder for very little cash. All the black keys and most of the naturals have a makers mark on the inside of the key which looks like a squared off four leaf clover with an initial in each leaf, perhaps a "c" or two, maybe an "m". The naturals also have a numeral 2 before the makers mark. 17 of the naturals have different marks. A few have what looks like a forward and backwards "K" in a circle, with various numerals not corresponding to key number. A few have what looks like three "C" s in a circle. There are slight differences in the way the keys are constructed from one group to another, although apparently they should all interchange. I havery ve buffed all the keys, and all look new now, except the 4 leaf clover keys are smooth as glass on their surface. The C and KK keys have a slight ripple like nearly smooth water. All are the rounded.

I am curious if anyone has noticed this, and if there is any explanation beyond different sourcing over the years. Before I tear this up, I want to make sure I don't create a nightmare for myself with this obsession.

I also wonder if anyone has a supply of old keys that I might buy to match the 4 leaf clover 2 that I have. Of course I would supply a list of the 17 I need, mostly D'S and E's.

Thanks all

Larry K

[Sweet Pete]

Playing keys are not all the same.Maybe another member can enlighten us with the codes under them?I noticed and wondered too?

I lucked out on my BV.Early smooth playing keys,like the B2 here,earliest factory smooth rounded keys I've ever seen or played.
I notice a difference over the nearly 40 years they were built.
Later plastic compounds seem brittle and the E and D and A naturals break more often.Hang on to those original 'chicklets' as long as you can Larry!
The set on my BCV are old rescued spinet chops that were bone ugly and gave up great naturals and sharps!Among other things.
This complete set of '73 B3 keys are not installed at the moment,must hang on to them in case I rebuild the chop,or use the manuals.
You chop 'em,I rescue what's left.And those keys are worth saving.Notably E/A/D.No science here,just look at them.
On further investigation the drawbars felt very smooth for ratchets,ended up being smoothies some previous owner had installed.

Will have a look at my other spares,most people need the keys you mention Larry,D is my particular frequent replacement.
A complete set of '37 hard edged keys and presets non refurbed ready to clean and polish can be obtained from me,PM anyone interested.

Also,later B3's were roaded and rocked so more late ones mashed up let alone places of worship with older ones in need also.
There is value in old unplayed spinets,if only to keep the consoles up and running.
After all nearly a century has passed since the heydey of theater and musicals,with the talkies replacing organists in droves.
That these keep playing after all this time is amazing.

[handyczech]

My BV is 24250, which I think was nearer the end than the beginning, and I remember playing a 1946 CV which had very sharp edged keys when I was in high school way back in the 60s.. This BV is not as sharp, yet has this peculiar concave effect on the naturals. Can't be cause it was played too much like an old ivory keyed piano. I also like the repairable key combs with the clips instead of the rivet and felt type.

So what I need are C(qty 5) D(6) E(4) G(2). I can buy, pay postage, or trade back sharps and naturals with the (ccc) code or the (kk) code. What I need is the 4 leaf clover (chicklet?) with the numeral "2" before it.

Thanks,

Larry K