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Removing/cleaning Bus bars

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  • Removing/cleaning Bus bars

    A-100

    I had some scratchy/noisy notes in the upper two octaves of my upper manual. I staccato pressed the keys ad nauseam, but I eventually just shifted the bus bars a couple turns and, voila! Good to go.

    The question I have. I would like to remove the bus bars and clean them/replace if req'd. Can I do this by just pivoting up the manuals and pull them out horizontally, or can I set the organ on its side and pivot the manuals and remove them vertically?

    This machine is a new purchase for me and I will eventually replace the up/down felts on the upper manual as well. I could do both procedures while I have the manuals flipped up.
    ‘65 A-100
    2x147
    PR-40
    C2 cabinet

  • #2
    The bus bars tend to go back in easier if the organ is on end. The felts can be replaced with the manuals raised.
    Bus bar hints:
    1. Tape down cancel key. Take a rag and soak up any excess oil in the run motor/scanner tub.
    2. Remove 1 at a time. I wear latex gloves (keep skin oil off the bars.)
    3. I clean with alcohol wipes, never dull and then lube. As you run the bars through your fingers, you can feel any nicks. If your fingers are offset, you can induce a bend in the bars (think rolling mill).
    Jim

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    • #3
      If you are tilting the organ on to its side, lock the generator as well.

      I would never recommend doing this on B type cabinets. C type, A-100 type, sure go for it. Put something on the interior of the organ case to protect it from scratches and scuffs as you scoot the manuals out (if you care.)

      Comment


      • #4
        Not to put too sharp of a point on it, but you can't access the busbars simply by tilting the organ on its side.

        I think he was assuming the manuals would be removed. At the very least, the manuals have to be tilted up, and for this kind of surgery, I'd certainly remove the entire assembly.

        So the whole organ is not in question, here.

        At least I hope not.

        Comment


        • #5
          I have not done this on an A100 case. I have cleaned bus bars on C and D cabinets, with the manuals completely out of the organ.

          It is by far easier and less risky to remove both manuals and drawbars in one piece, and get them on to a table or bench. Get a helper so that you don't throw your back out.

          I was recently in a pinch for workbench space, and had to figure out a way to do this on a couple of B type cabinets without removing the manuals from the organ. I did NOT tilt the entire organs onto their sides at the risk of a surprise wood joint stress test. There is not enough slack in the manual wiring harness, unfortunately. So, I desoldered the manuals at the tone generator, vib scanner, and a few other wires to allow me to scoot the manuals forward, then tilted them up (name rail facing the ceiling.) several blocks of wood on both ends to prop them up high enough to access the bus bars. Then, I had to re-insert one of the through-bolts into each side of the manuals to hold the upper/lower manual on to each other, and then, remove the black decorative flathead through-bolts that come out the control panel. I had to do this because the black through bolt blocks access to the bus bars on the upper manual, and didn't want them falling down.

          I'm not proud of it but I got the job done without any damage. I would have very much rather removed the manuals and put them on a work bench, but like I said... times dictated me do it that way for lack of workbench space. Having 4 organs being worked on at once is apparently not sustainable in this house. :)

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks folks. Those were the sorts of replies I was looking for. Short of unsoldering the manuals (something I dread doing) and removing them, I'm pretty much SoL with my plan. My problem area of the upper manual was rectified with the shift of the bus bar, so I'm happy with that. I was just looking ahead at a longer term solution. I should still be OK with felt replacement with tilting manuals up with wedges? Muckekroy mentioned a lack of slack...
            ‘65 A-100
            2x147
            PR-40
            C2 cabinet

            Comment


            • #7
              You can try but be careful. If you pull too tight you'll break wires and/or terminals on the generator. It's really not too bad to desolder an A100 manual as the back of the generator is right there in front of you on back edge, not recessed 12” inside.

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              • #8
                This is always a controversial issue. Tom Petro and I did a job on an 1958 B3 and we didn't put it on it's side. It's really not a good idea. Muckleroy I think we used a process similar.

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                • #9
                  Damn. Really? Do I need to think about this for my 1962 B3? I really don't know. I'm just a simple minded drummer....

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                  • #10
                    I don't think this one was used too much.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I need some guidance with my awesome Hammonadage.
                      If this ain't right place, please point me in the right direction.....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        This is the right place, for sure. Busbar cleaning is probably not needed unless you have assorted keys that won't, or inconsistently sound all of their tones. Even then, there are other things to try first. Welcome to the forum!
                        Tom in Tulsa

                        Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720

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