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Speaker Impedance

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  • Speaker Impedance

    Does anyone know the speaker impedance of the 12" speakers in an M101?

  • #2
    Re: Speaker Impedance



    Pair of them... 16 ohms each in parallel.</P>


    If replacing, ONLY use good music INSTRUMENT quality speakers... Radio shack and stereo ones just don't cut it...</P>

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Speaker Impedance

      [quote user="fredy2"]


      Pair of them... 16 ohms each in parallel.</P>


      If replacing, ONLY use good music INSTRUMENT quality speakers... Radio shack and stereo ones just don't cut it...</P>


      [/quote]</P>
      <P mce_keep="true"></P>


      Ditto that, also, if you are replacing them, look for ones with alnico magnets, e.g.,Jensens or Celestions. They're not all that expensive.</P>
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      • #4
        Re: Speaker Impedance



        Well, sadly, it's the other way around, the organ has lost all hope so the speakers are coming out for new uses.</p>

        </p>

        "16 ohms each in parallel"- maybe I'm interperateing this wrong, but does that mean 32 ohms individually?
        </p>

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        • #5
          Re: Speaker Impedance



          No David, the other way round, 16 ohmsindividually gives 8 ohms in parallel.</P>
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          Jed</P>
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          • #6
            Re: Speaker Impedance



            What is wring with the organ&gt; Almost anything can be fixed in those...</P>
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            • #7
              Re: Speaker Impedance



              Well, thank you everyone. So 16 ohms it is per speaker.</p>

              I got the organ off the side of the road, and it has had tonewheels stuck, which I eventually freed up for the most part, but it took desoldering the whole board and taking it out; I'm still not sure I could remember how to re-solder everything as it's been a while. And the run motor/scanner is broken, and they seem to be pretty rare and expensive on ebay. I also don't have a tech nearby.
              </p>

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              • #8
                Re: Speaker Impedance

                Schematics are readily available and the mechanics of the run motor is repairable... and lots of free help on here...

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                • #9
                  Re: Speaker Impedance



                  Well, if you're sure that I can get it working again, I will invest in a new motor. I also wouldn't like to see another one of these relics destroyed.</p>

                  </p>

                  I remember having this conversation with you however long ago:</p>

                  http://organforum.com/forums/thread/56403.aspx</p>

                  </p>

                  This is the only motor I see on ebay right now...:</p>

                  </p>

                  http://cgi.--------/HAMMOND-TONEWHEEL-MOTOR-AND-VIBRATO-SCANNER-M3-B3_W0QQitemZ320318606704QQcmdZViewItemQQptZKeyboar d_MIDI_Accessories?hash=item320318606704&amp;_trks id=p3286.c0.m14&amp;_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65% 3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 </p>

                  </p>

                  Thanks
                  </p>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Speaker Impedance



                    If the windings aren't burnt, no reason to replace the motor... just need to refurb it... bearings... often the capacitor goes bad...</P>


                    What are the symptoms? What have you investigated so far?</P>

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Speaker Impedance



                      Well, when I flip on the "run" switch, it just stalls the tonewheels and then "sticks" in place. If you try and twist it, it resists your movement, and then pops into a new "slot".</p>

                      I don't know if I'd refurbrish it though, as I have an opportunity to buy a replacement locally for $35.</p>

                      Thanks, David.
                      </p>

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Speaker Impedance



                        If that organ has the two motor starting system, you need to understand the principle they use... You hold the start until up over running speed...and then flip the run on as you release the start.</P>


                        If you warm the organ amps up, you should be able to tell if the notes are above pitch during starting... if they are low, lube the gen...</P>


                        The starting motor HAS to speed the generator up FASTER than the normal run speed... then when run is engaged and the start is released, the generator slows down to syncronous speed and the syncronous motor locks in...</P>


                        If the unit is not getting up to speed, the run will act exactly as you described. Syncronous motors have nearly no torque and act as a brake if not spinning at syncronous speed.</P>


                        If the generator needs lube to allow it to spin fast enough, that can cause the problem... If you have the single motor type, then the cap is probably bad if you can't sense bad bearings...</P>

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