I have an M-111, and I was interested in putting a lighting system on, to play at night, and just for effect. I want to know the best place to draw power. I was thinking of drawing off of the lamp of the on switch, then running the power through a switch to toggle on and off.</p>
I was thinking of putting in a lamp for the pedals, and a lamp for each manual, as well as a lamp for the sheet music.</p>
If you look around you'll find some great brass music desk lights that will stand behind the music desk and illuminate the music. Very classy, if you can find a good one, and looks good on a nice piece of furniture like an M.</p>
Andy
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It's not what you play. It's not how you play. It's the fact that you're playing that counts.
it's not exactly original in the first place. It's had a headphone jack added to it, which i've had to repair. I'm not going to remove it until I get a leslie.
The T500s had music stand lights and the RT3 Concert organs had pedal lights. The M's didn't have either. Personally I am against "pimping" Hammonds as they should be appreciated in their own right. Line out sockets allow people to connect to a Leslie via a pre amp pedal. It is a bit more discreet than having lights every where. All of my organs have line outs.</P>
If you want to go down the pimping route, someone on the forum has fitted a spinning pie dish in their M series</P>
The problem with using the power to the front panel lamp is that the very same power source is used to power the amplifier tubes' heater filaments. Putting more load on that source of power will lower the filament voltage, and might overload the windings of the transformer. What you can do though is replace the front panel lamp with an LED, and then use additional LEDs as your lamps. The original lamp uses 150mA, and each LED will use about 15mA, so you could have up to 10 LEDs.</p>
To make the LEDs draw 15mA, you'll need an appropriate resistor in series with each LED. Also, I'd suggest using a full-wave rectifier and a capacitor (say 1000uF, 16V), and run the LEDs from filtered DC instead of directly from the AC. If you ran the LEDs from AC, they will only be on half the time. You may or may not notice the 60Hz flicker, but the big problem is that they will be loading down the transformer only half the time, which means you might get 60Hz hum in your amplifier.</p>
Given that the filament windings produce 6VAC, after rectification and filtering, you'll have about 7.1VDC. An ultra-bright orange LED has a 1.9V drop, leaving you with 5.2V. A 330 Ohm resistor in series with the LED will cause it to draw about 16mA, which is in the desired ballpark.</p>
Regarding the "spinning pie dish" the previous poster is referring to, that's probably me. I installed a rotating speaker from a Yamaha organ in my M-111. Is it desecration? Only if you think the organ is holy. [;)] I've received only positive comments until that one. I notice that he has a 1963 Leslie plugged into his 1960 RT-3. Blasphemous! [:)]
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finally a little constructive advice. thank you very much. The way i figure, If my mods are 100 percent reversible, there should be no problems if someone is looking for original. A few LED's isn't what I would consider pimped.
Your Hammond has many places to attach A/C lights to, to make a music stand etc. for that, get a light, and then just 'hunk it in' to the AC wiring. I have an M3, and I have put several A/C pluggins inside for such things.</p>
If you want to make lights aroudh the thing, then LEDs should work: for each LED get a 4.4K resister and then wire off a DC place (see your schematics): all of the leds to ground via the 4.4K resiseters, and onto the 5-15v places from the amp. Simple. </p>
Radio Shack makes an 'Led Bundle' that you can use as a cable of lights - two wires: ground and 5-15 volts (see your schematic).</p>
I use DC LEDs to light the music stand for my M3: a Radio Shack kit -it has the tranformers etc - just plug one end into the AC and the leds light up: (my kit has 5 lights: with a soldering iron and electrical tape you could make that to 1000 LEDs; </p>
[quote user="mortson978"]finally a little constructive advice. thank you very much. The way i figure, If my mods are 100 percent reversible, there should be no problems if someone is looking for original. A few LED's isn't what I would consider pimped.
[/quote]</P>
LEDs sound cool! I had an image of bulbs or flourescent tubes [:$]</P>
With the shadow gap under the diving board keys you could get some good trick effects. </P>
When I worked for Barratt Construction, there was an office block in London, and I was project managing it's refurbishment. Every column on the outside of thebuilding had one LED lamp which lit it up. I mention this because we had a lighting design company giving us architects impressions of the various effects, intensity, even colour change (at the flick of a switch). It was very hard to choose the final scheme. The beauty of the LED is that they are so small and discreet.</P>
The problem with using the power to the front panel lamp is that the very same power source is used to power the amplifier tubes' heater filaments. Putting more load on that source of power will lower the filament voltage, and might overload the windings of the transformer. What you can do though is replace the front panel lamp with an LED, and then use additional LEDs as your lamps. The original lamp uses 150mA, and each LED will use about 15mA, so you could have up to 10 LEDs.</P>
To make the LEDs draw 15mA, you'll need an appropriate resistor in series with each LED. Also, I'd suggest using a full-wave rectifier and a capacitor (say 1000uF, 16V), and run the LEDs from filtered DC instead of directly from the AC. If you ran the LEDs from AC, they will only be on half the time. You may or may not notice the 60Hz flicker, but the big problem is that they will be loading down the transformer only half the time, which means you might get 60Hz hum in your amplifier.</P>
Given that the filament windings produce 6VAC, after rectification and filtering, you'll have about 7.1VDC. An ultra-bright orange LED has a 1.9V drop, leaving you with 5.2V. A 330 Ohm resistor in series with the LED will cause it to draw about 16mA, which is in the desired ballpark.</P>
Regarding the "spinning pie dish" the previous poster is referring to, that's probably me. I installed a rotating speaker from a Yamaha organ in my M-111. Is it desecration? Only if you think the organ is holy. [;)] I've received only positive comments until that one. I notice that he has a 1963 Leslie plugged into his 1960 RT-3. Blasphemous! [:)]
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[/quote]</P>
Re: spinning pie dish. Sorry that is what I call those speakers because of their shape. No offence meant!</P>
I tried to listen to your audio sample but got a blank page. Are you running this for the treble and using the main speakers for the bass?</P>
I have noticed with a Leslie 710 I recently bought back to life that the expression of the speed change is mainly through the treble rotor and I disconnected the roto-sonic drum and connected it's signal to the bass speaker as an experiment.</P>
Re: Leslie 122 connected to RT3. The Leslie 122R came from an ebay auction for £500/$900? with the full hook up kit and half moons connected to a.............Yamaha B20R (same as your parts donor). I let the guy keep the Yamaha because it wouldn't fit in my car and he gave it to a local church instead. I have never seen a rotary speaker like yours before, only the ones inHammond spinets. I have removed the built in Leslie on my T202 and it is up for grabs for free if anyone wants to pay the postage from the UK</P>
What I did to my M3 may work for your project. When I got the M3, it had a non original 25' bright orange(!) lawnmower cord kluged onto the last 3" of rotting original hammond cord. Checking the amp I found that the original hammond cord inside the grommet where it passes into the amp was equally rotted, dried out, insulation falling off in bits, in other words, an electrical disaster just waiting to happen. Any way cut to the chase, I soldered a one foot chunk of cord with grounding plug directly into the amp (ground to chassis) and then screwed a multi-outlet power bar into the space beside the amp where the cord comes out. </p>
SO now I have a safe auxiliary power source with ground and circuit breaker protection for organ and accessories that does not draw power from the organ power supply. Another great feature for M3 (no rear cover) is the ability to easily turn off the power bar switch, an extra safety feature when doing maintenance, and a way to make sure unauthorized little hands do not turn the organ on when supervision is not available :-)
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For them that believes that originality must be preserved, might I suggest upgrading your fire insurance if you can't bear upgrading your power cord?
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