HAMMOND M-100 need help!

[Guest]

I just boughtan M-143 (I heard the difference in the last two digits is purely cosmetic, correct me if I'm wrong)off ebay, and it's my first tonewheel. There are some problems as she was not at all cared for. It hadn't been oiled in who knows how long so I went out and got the specific Hammond oil. Well I started her up and without any troubles sure enough she came to life. The motor worked first time with no help and the tubes were all functioning. Unfortunatly, all the keys are rather scratchy, and they will either never reach their proper sound or just fade in and out of it. Could anybody give me some suggestions as to what I can do?

[JJMcS]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



Others can probably give more expert advice, but playing it will most likely cure much of that. If the drawbars are a little flakey, you might clean them. De-oxit does a good job. You can find service manuals on eBay, I recently bought the M series manual on a CD Rom from here:</P>


http://myworld.ebay.com/sgsx3/</P>


It will help you figure out how to get to the drawbars (on the M2 it is just 2 screws, I'm not sure about the M100). You probably will also need to clean the Vibrato etc. switches as well.</P>
<P mce_keep="true"></P>


Good Luck.</P>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



The busbars maybe dirty.</p>

There's a round hole on the left
side, under the lower keyboard (it looks like a black box) which has a
metal lever: with pliers, pull and push several times (do NOT bend it):
this wll provide a clean contact for the keys. After doing this, just
play stacatto on each one of the keys. (upper and lower)</p>

</p>Hope this helps.

[geoelectro]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



There are two different kinds of Busbars used on those instruments. The "normal" busbar is a rectangular shaped bar that's silver. Hammond used a round brass bar in some instruments. I have found these in M-100's and A-100's. They tarnish with age and humidity and the only way to fix it is to remove them and clean them. We use a metal polish to make them shiney again. Then, coat them with De-Oxit.</p>

The bad thing about the round bars is they will need this cleaning every so many years. Depends on climate and usage.</p>

The good thing is once cleaned, they play like new and they don'y have the same wear factor thst the silver ones have.</p>

George
</p>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



Didn't know that.
</p>

I have mine cleaned by H &amp; S Organs in Chicago because a lot of scratchy notes. (previous owner didn't play the upper keyboard at all never ever)</p>

And it's a lot of a job just to disassemble the keyboards, I saw it.
</p>


</p>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

[quote user="geoelectro"]


There are two different kinds of Busbars used on those instruments. The "normal" busbar is a rectangular shaped bar that's silver. Hammond used a round brass bar in some instruments. I have found these in M-100's and A-100's. They tarnish with age and humidity and the only way to fix it is to remove them and clean them. We use a metal polish to make them shiney again. Then, coat them with De-Oxit.</P>


The bad thing about the round bars is they will need this cleaning every so many years. Depends on climate and usage.</P>


The good thing is once cleaned, they play like new and they don'y have the same wear factor thst the silver ones have.</P>


George
</P>[/quote]Hey George. First of all let me say that this question comes from a place of "I don't know" not as a challenge. I had heard someplace that De-Oxit is a chemical that cleans oxidation off switching surfaces but that if left on the metal will continue to eat away at the base metal until the chemical etching compound is spent. I read, or heard, or dreamed someplace that De-Oxit should be used as you suggest and then removed with a contact cleaner/lubricant afterwards. Is this a myth?

[geoelectro]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



My info is that before De-Oxit came on the scene, what you say was true about most contact cleaners. However, when De-Oxit came around, it was very different from the usual cleaners and that it wouldn't hurt anything, even plastic. That said, I use it freely on just about everything. Other techs have the same experience.</p>

Companies that said to NEVER USE CONTACT CLEANER SPRAYS on their products agreed that De-Oxit was fine to use.</p>

I appreciate your question and feel completely safe in recommending De-Oxit on most everything. Now when I apply it to the busbars, it's done by spraying into a rag, and wiping the rag on the bar. So it's a very thin layer after all is done.</p>

George
</p>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

[quote user="geoelectro"]


My info is that before De-Oxit came on the scene, what you say was true about most contact cleaners. However, when De-Oxit came around, it was very different from the usual cleaners and that it wouldn't hurt anything, even plastic. That said, I use it freely on just about everything. Other techs have the same experience.</P>


Companies that said to NEVER USE CONTACT CLEANER SPRAYS on their products agreed that De-Oxit was fine to use.</P>


I appreciate your question and feel completely safe in recommending De-Oxit on most everything. Now when I apply it to the busbars, it's done by spraying into a rag, and wiping the rag on the bar. So it's a very thin layer after all is done.</P>


George
</P>[/quote]Thanks George. I have been using it on tube sockets and pots since it came out but have been loath to leave much on there. I've been following it up with cable clean or anything with a little trichloroethane in it. (hold breath) I can't substantiate anything other than what you have said so I guess I'll quit worrying about it.

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Hey guys thanks for the help! Pushing and pulling on the level to spin the busbar did a little, but could not solve the problem and I think that now I have to actually remove and clean some parts. Now what I want to know, before I bother my parents again to order something online or go out to the rather inconvenient organ specialty shop, is if I can use something that is an alternative to Busbar lube or that other stuff (I cant remember the name) about which you all have been discussing. I have on hand a bottle of Tonewheel oil and also a good stock of 3 in 1 and perhaps some other lubracants, and thus my question to you is what, if anything would be an acceptable subsitute?

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



I just did it the other day (had some tones fading away, etc.) After
the bar shifting, there were some tones missing that corrected by
themselves playing, and playing and playing.
</p>In order to
clean the busbars (pain in the a$%#%), you will have to disasemble BOTH
keyboards and take them out from the cabinet (VERY heavy) , after
unsoldering a LOT of connections. (I've seen the technician doing this
at home). Affter that, the process was done at the shop, Geoelectro
could give some insight on this.

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Man! I think I'll just take her to the shop! I am not very good with soldering-I hate the absolute worst luck and lost many a brain cells the last timeI attempted to wire up my bass guitar. But there's a guy around here who says he makes house calls. How much did it cost you to have this procedure done (so I can get a ballpark range)?

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



I had it done in Chicago, last July, asked for 3 estimates and went
with the cheaper one, albeit a very reputable technician in town: $375.</p>With
the actual state of the economy, I hope these "rare to find"
technicians come down to their senses with prices BUT, it's supply and
demand and they are scarce.

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



[:O] no way it costs that much! Dang! I'm going to dig out the old soldering iron and order some busbar lube cause I'm going to work! I only paid $100 for the organ and I dont have $400 laying around. Wow. Looks like I'm going to be having some fun with this one. But say, does anybody (and I know this forum is full of Hammond experts who abhor any sort of cheating) know of a short cut way to get the busbars to the point that they are playable enough for a fanatic who doesn't have that much time on his hands?</P>

[geoelectro]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

[quote user="Newb"]

[:O] no way it costs that much! Dang! I'm going to dig out the old soldering iron and order some busbar lube cause I'm going to work! I only paid $100 for the organ and I dont have $400 laying around. Wow. Looks like I'm going to be having some fun with this one. But say, does anybody (and I know this forum is full of Hammond experts who abhor any sort of cheating) know of a short cut way to get the busbars to the point that they are playable enough for a fanatic who doesn't have that much time on his hands?</p>

[/quote]</p>

As a Professional Organ Technician, I would ask you, should my rate change according to what you paid for it? Just because you got it for $100.00. or even free, my rate is set according to what it takes to run a business and survive. I don't know of any Organ Technician that's rich! Most do it because they love the instruments and music. I hear the argument all the time that "I only paid X amount". Then, you should be willing to pay more for the needed service. A customer who has a $10,000 organ would look at a $400.00 bill as fair. Yet, it takes the same amount of work for either instrument.</p>

As an Organ Technician I have to be able to work on obsolete tube equipment, the latest digital and everything in between. I have to stock very expensive parts and equipment. Have an equipped shop. Have a service vehicle fully stocked for road work. There is insurance, fuel costs, employee costs, taxes etc.</p>

If you think the cost is a little high, try to bargain a little. Offer to move it to their shop where the rates may be lower. Let them work on it in their spare time by not being in a hurry for it.</p>

Support your local Organ Technician!</p>

George
</p>

[Model E & Me]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



[quote user="geoelectro"] Support your local Organ Technician![/quote]</P>


Amen to that!</P>


No, I am not an organ technician or any other kind, but the ones I have used have been worth every penny.</P>


Newb: If you are in the least bit impatient, don't try a busbar job. There are many other postings about the difficulty in getting the bars back in place, not to mention the fun you'll have if you try to hurry and bend one.</P>