HAMMOND M-100 need help!

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Well I am right in the middle of the lower busbar job (waiting for the soldering iron to heat up to solder the leads back on) and I figured I'd get on the forum real quick. So, in responce to George, I actually just got a camera for the sole purpous of documenting the last bits of the organ servicing! When I figure out how to I'll post the pictures and maybe a video or two and give you the heads up and you can tell all your friends "Hey! Check out what I helped this kid do!" . So thanks a holepunch for all the help!

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Next step would be to add foldback, well documented with photos / video.That would be awesome.

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



A former Hammond repair tech, I did many 'busbar jobs'.The story I heard in the early 70's was that Hammond changed vendors for the busbars and the new busbars had _too much_ silver in them. Sulphur in the air, from air pollution etcformed silver sulphide (an insulator) on the busbars. This is the same black stuff that forms on silverware and can be cleaned off withNEVR-DULL or something like that. I saw Hammonds in farmhouses that had coal heat, (coal has sulphur in it) and after some time most notes would not play at full level, some not at all. A busbar job made them like new. The kit that Hammond suppliedback then incuded a white greasein a plastic holderthat you pulled the busbar through after cleaning.The coatinggrease was to'seal' the cleanedbussbar to the air after the contacts separated at key-up.Theplastic tube had a slot for the busbars to go throughto coat it very lightlywith this grease, then you slid it back into the keyboard, yes, very carefully. Took about all day on some of these to do the job ina house. I turned the organ on it's right side on a pad and worked from there. You only wanted to slide busbars vertically. Some said cut the wires to the busbars, yes, then tack them back together with solder. </P>


Baldwin had a similar problem with their silver wire keyswitches on the late 60s early 70's models resulting in varying level on keys. Same cause, air pollution, which affected many things in electronics industry using silver contacts. The only solution there was to replace _all_ of the keyswitch wires with gold clad wires,whichBaldwin used starting in the early 70's. No chemicals or grease usedsince the wirescontacted a conductive elastomer (to reduce keyclicks) rather than metal to metal contacts like a hammond. And don't try spraying anythingas it will destroy the elastomer 'headers' and if these are bad the only solution is to replace them. Again it sometimes tookdays to replace all the contacts on a largeorgan. NEVR DULL seemed to work on wire voicing tab contacts using a pinch of the stuff.</P>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!



Cool stuff! Hey, by the way, I've been trying to figure out how to hook a single speaker up to the M-100 (for a do it yourself leslie (I know! I know! Don't give me the long speech about how I should get a real one)) and I found some help in the manual, but I'm still lost; I know I have to do something with the voice coil terminal but I can't find it! I have no idea what it looks like or what exactly I'm supposed to use from it! Anybody have any info on that?</P>

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Go to YouTube and search for homemade or DYI Leslie.

[Guest]

Re: HAMMOND M-100 need help!

Alright yall I'm going to start another forum so I might be able to get more help with the whole external speaker thing, but thanks a lot for all the help on the diagnosis and for walking me through the busbar job.