Leslie Switch Mount on mint B3 - alternatives?

[advorak]

I just acquired a pretty mint B3 without any modifications — not even a Leslie switch nor holes for a Leslie switch on the front rail.

I want to avoid drilling any holes into this thing. Does anybody have any suggestions for mounting a Leslie switch on the front of the organ without drilling into the front rail? Like maybe somehow a mounting bracket that affixed to ... somewhere?

I suppose my backup option would be a foot switch... but I want the real deal if possible. :-)

Andy

[peterb_2795]

I use 38mm wide hook and loop tape. This allows for easy removal of the switch if moving the organ (or even a couple of alternate positions on the front rail if you wish).

[geoelectro]

You realize the half-moon switch doesn't require drilling into the front rail, but screws in underneath. Yes, two holes are made, but under the rail so when removed no holes are visible.

You could add a metal plate to the half-moon switch where the extended length could reach the metal portion past the rail and mount using the existing screws under there.

Geo

[Drawbar Dave]

I've got a couple of the proper extender plates that came with early Tremolo/Off Half moon switches.

[Goff]

As mentioned the rail is where the half moon goes. The holes under the rail if you don't move the switch once installing are a small price to pay. You can always use wood filler, a putty knife & sandpaper on the holes if the rail is pocked with old screw holes.

The more things change the more they remain the same. Not unless someone invents a brainwave switch that allows you to think rotor speeds and can be installed in the Leslie somewhere.😃

I put a piece of felt the size of the back of the switch to steady the halfmoon with just enough height to minimize fingernail scratches on the top edge of the rail from constant switch banging. Your choice of color felt.😛

Oh and don' forget to put a dab of silicone glue on the metal switch tang so your $10 switch cap doesn't go flying into the next room during moments of heightened organasms...:emotion-40:

[advorak]

You realize the half-moon switch doesn't require drilling into the front rail, but screws in underneath. Yes, two holes are made, but under the rail so when removed no holes are visible.

You could add a metal plate to the half-moon switch where the extended length could reach the metal portion past the rail and mount using the existing screws under there.

Geo

Yes, I'm familiar with where it screws in, even though I may not have described it accurately.

I had thoughts about a metal plate where you describe, but I didn't go so far as to figure out where the screws under the bottom manual we're going to —what do the screws under the bottom manual hold down?

That seems the logical route to go given my concerns... I may draw something up and get the CNC router going...

[andyg]

I did this to make a removable set of half moons.

I cut a piece of metal the right length and bend into a flattened U shape, just a little wider than the front rail. Drilled suitable holes and got a friend to weld on a captive nut over each hole. Inserted a wing bolt into each hole. Lined the upper part of the U - that slid over the front rail - with felt. Cut the lip of each of the half moons and epoxied them to the metal.

I could then slide the U section with the half moons over the front rail and gently tighten up the wing bolts. They may leave a very small mark.

But, as has been said, the tiny screw holes are a small price to pay and can be easily filled and disguised if you later remove switch the organ to sell it. TBH, nobody really cares if there are a couple of small holes there anyway and it shouldn't make a cent difference to the selling price. The condition of the organ alone would tell potential buyers if it's been gigged or not. And, assuming that you've bought the organ to love, enjoy and play rather than to sell on quickly to make a quick buck, the two little holes won't matter! :)

[Goff]

I would rather not mess with the lower manual. The halfmoon is a brittle composite. Best not to add heavy metal pieces attached to the bakelite for in a tug of war the halfmoon will fracture rendering a ploy to save a few mm's of rail wood not even visible for naught having to replace a $100 halfmoon.

Overthinking this has diminishing returns.😃

[andyg]

My method was back in the days when leslies and halfmoons were abundant and cheap (or even free!). I had a 'standard' 9 pin kit, half moons attached as described. Alligator clips for audio, switched AC separately. That kit went on and off dozens of organs over a few years driving 710s and 760s. Never a problem - you handled the bracket as a whole assembly, never needed to touch the half moons, so they stayed intact. Yes, bakelite could be brittle but you removed the lip carefully and slowly with a fine saw.

But I agree, it's not needed for the sake of two tiny holes. And I'm not sure about putting anything further under the lower manual.

[David Anderson]

My take is that half-moon switches are historically a very standard thing to find on a B-3 and that if you do a careful installation, no one will care. That means carefully positioning the switch tightly against the rail and drilling pilot holes for the screws.

There's a difference between an unusual modification and one that no one with experience with Hammonds would ever think twice about. I think you're making too much of this, and I'm kind of a purist who doesn't like to see things damaged. I'd compare a half-moon switch to an SUV with a trailer hitch installed. No one is going to look at an SUV with a trailer hitch and think you've somehow ruined your car.

[bnelson218]

Organasms? :)