UPDATE
I later made some modifications on the keystack, in order to get the vertical spacing and the key overhang right.
I also removed two keys before the first C and two keys after the last C to give way for the partitioning pieces. I was left with 69 keys (23 on each manual) for the stops.
When I installed the keybeds, I found that the partitions held them in place, so there was no need to screw them to the platforms.
I drilled 16mm holes on the panels that cover the "stop" sections, each hole aligning with each key. Then I cut up "dowels" from drumsticks and inserted them in the holes to "push on, push off" the stops.
Very often, some dowels shifted out of alignment (especially those on the black keys) and got stuck, or pressed the wrong or two keys simultaneously. I solved this by inserting cylindrical plastic tubes, which had been cut to just rest on the keys. They kept the dowel in place on their respective keys.
I later made some modifications on the keystack, in order to get the vertical spacing and the key overhang right.
I also removed two keys before the first C and two keys after the last C to give way for the partitioning pieces. I was left with 69 keys (23 on each manual) for the stops.
When I installed the keybeds, I found that the partitions held them in place, so there was no need to screw them to the platforms.
I drilled 16mm holes on the panels that cover the "stop" sections, each hole aligning with each key. Then I cut up "dowels" from drumsticks and inserted them in the holes to "push on, push off" the stops.
Very often, some dowels shifted out of alignment (especially those on the black keys) and got stuck, or pressed the wrong or two keys simultaneously. I solved this by inserting cylindrical plastic tubes, which had been cut to just rest on the keys. They kept the dowel in place on their respective keys.
Comment