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George Wood - after removing the stop rail

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  • #46
    Bookbinders linen works well too, if you can source some. Denim seems the least costly - just don't cut up your dear lady's to get it...

    Nico
    "Don't make war, make music!" Hammonds, Lowreys, Yamaha's, Gulbransens, Baldwin, Technics, Johannus. Reed organs. Details on request...

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    • #47
      A bit of progress on the bellows situation.

      I cut some 1/2" birch plywood to match the old bellows board, then cut 5/8" poplar strips to use as the raised edges.

      Click image for larger version

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      (Rotate the photo)

      I've never done this kind of wood work before, so am still working on how to cut out the area which gives space for some of the pallets (?). That cut out will be covered with another square of plywood. Also need to cut the air holes in the board.

      On the original bellows board, the edges have leather on top. I'll put thin leather on the top of the new edges.
      Should there also be some kind of leather or other gasket material between the board itself and the four edge strips? Or is that just simply glued?

      There was no way I could figure out how to remove the broken and slivered wood which was yellow glued to the top of the bellows, so I slowly chipped it away using a wood chisel. That leaves a very rough surface, which I need to figure out how to smooth, so it will make good contact with the bellows board.

      Click image for larger version

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      I continue to clean the reed boxes. On the one which connects to the Concert Flute, Celeste, Tremolo, and Forte stop knobs, I found several reed cells with dry mouse poop inside. Vacuumed that out, but one cell had what seemed to be "mouse poop concrete" - a grey powder which I had to chip out with a tiny screwdriver.

      That Tremolo box is unusual to me - not a rotating fan blade as I had expected. It's like a lead weight on a wire, free to move up and down. Have no idea how it works.

      Tom M.

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      • #48
        Earth calling members. Earth calling members. Is anyone out there?

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        • #49
          Sorry, I missed your post of the 13th, thought I'd already read one that day.
          The perimeter strips to add thickness to the ply can be glued and screwed down to be perfectly airtight. Pilot drill all the holes so it fits snug. Then the strips get a leather gasket to seal with their mating board of the upper action. Also pilot drill the new screw holes in the perimeter. Then punch or burn the leather for the screw holes, or it will pile up when the screws go through and get in the way of a nice seal.

          The bellows unit gets scraped or planed clean of all the wood and glue, then use a leather gasket on it too. Don't forget to cut the holes in the leather so the air can pass.
          You have what is called a "beater" tremolo. It has a disagreeable effect to modern ears. It works by alternately cutting off and restoring the wind supply to the reeds, like clapping your hand over your mouth.
          Casey

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          • #50
            Originally posted by SubBase View Post

            You have what is called a "beater" tremolo. It has a disagreeable effect to modern ears. It works by alternately cutting off and restoring the wind supply to the reeds, like clapping your hand over your mouth.
            Casey
            My massive old Jilles van der Tak has one of those. The sensitivity is controlled by a weight on a short piece of spring wire holding the valve tight - and it is a real devil to adjust properly! If the weight is too far out on the wire, the valve does not open, too far inward and the tremolo sounds like a squeeky mouse trapped in a condensed milk tin... Properly adjusted it produces an interesting effect (to older ears).

            You're doing fine Tom, and thanks for keeping us updated.

            Take care

            Nico
            "Don't make war, make music!" Hammonds, Lowreys, Yamaha's, Gulbransens, Baldwin, Technics, Johannus. Reed organs. Details on request...

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