Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New Member - Adler Organ Owner - TLC questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    Okay ... too continue the journey ...I removed all the keys so thanks SubBase on that one. Now ... re: the stops. I'm assuming the wire mechanism that allows the stop to move only about 1.5" or so must be pulled OUT from the inside end of each rod, and then the board that holds that side to the stop board proper is detached ? One of the knobs was loose enough to be able to be removed from the stop rod itself - but i see they used glue to hold them on. So if i was going to replace the felt on the knob end of the rest of the stop rods, which appears to be like a washer shaped piece of felt, is it possible to actually disassemble all of the knobs with heat somehow, or do i try and replace the felt with a tiny strip glued in place ? I can see that if I remove the rods, I can easily replace the felt bushing that lines the inside of the hole of the front side of the stop board.

    Comment


    • SubBase
      SubBase commented
      Editing a comment
      If you plan on withdrawing the stops from their slidey-holes, remove the inner stuff that is keeping them restrained, not the knobs. You can use a razor knife or other sharp tool to cut out the felt punching/cushion, and to replace them, use a punch to make discs, and a smaller punch to make the inner hole for the 1/4" dowel. Slit them to install them, put the slit at the bottom so it can't be seen. A very small amount of fish glue will secure them in place.

    #32
    SO .. i'm cleaning the reeds as part of the general restoration here. I have one stop out in total on a handy rack that keeps them securely laid out in order (plus each note is stamped on each reed). Operational question though: should i remove and clean all reeds on both sides and leave them OUT before continuing to work on the reed valves, or should i return the reeds and then do the valves? I'm otherwise replacing felt as I go and leaving the shutters, keys, etc., set aside obviously until re-assembly...

    Comment


    • myorgan
      myorgan commented
      Editing a comment
      Some lay them on masking tape in order, and then secure them with a piece over them with the stop name written on the tape. That preserves both the order, and the stop name.

      Personally, I worry about tape residue, but others don't seem to have issues with this method.

      Michael

    #33
    So using a 4 and 1/2" cut off blade in an angle grinder, i was able to carefully open the gap between the stop knobs and the stop rod, to accomodate a red felt washer - which i purchased for $.65 each at a music store in Dayton OH (Hauers). These are used (officially) for trumpet valves which require a new felt. It was a very happy find, since i had no idea how I was going to punch out a round washer shaped affair from a sheet or strip of felt... Is there any post in the Reed Organ area here, that could maybe focus on parts, suppliers, and/or folks contributions about where they managed to find or contrive some of the more odd parts of these restoration endeavors?

    Comment


    • SubBase
      SubBase commented
      Editing a comment
      Before I invested in the Arch punches I needed, I made punches by sharpening metal tubing. That way I got 1/2" and 1" punches for free. A hole punch like for paper will make the 1/4" holes, usually. You can also burn small holes (for wood screws) in wool felt and leather by heating an awl red hot.

    #34
    So ... i've managed to complete the entire valve replacement operation with new felt/leather. Reeds were ultrasonically cleaned (only). Felt added on the stop board holes as well as the stops themselves, and the white keys were cleaned using 0000 steel wool. Replaced the pedal straps as well. I even steam cleaned the original carpet coverings of the pedals! I've added the current photo status as a link to the google drive folder here. - and the results are great! all reeds play in tune, and it sounds great.... !
    To use Google Drive, you need to use a supported web browser. Learn what a browser is, which browser you use, and how to update to the latest version. Option
    Last edited by Admin; 10-09-2019, 06:28 AM. Reason: Changed link title from "Update your browser to use Google Drive - Google Drive Help" to something more descriptive

    Comment


    • andyg
      andyg commented
      Editing a comment
      That's not a link to a Google drive folder. Please amend or add photos directly to your post

    • Admin
      Admin commented
      Editing a comment
      Yes, it is actually a link to his drive folder. The Forum software chooses a title when using the post link option. The user can edit the title to make it more friendly. I've gone ahead and edited it.

    #35
    Reservoir Valve Question: So does anyone have a photo of what the valves in the reservoir should look like from the reservoir side? When I had the reed box (?) off the base, i was able to peer into the slit that allows air to be drawn into the reservoir from the upper action, and could see the 6 holes on either side of the organ. I forgot to take a picture, but it appeared like there was some felt on some of the holes, but others were just the wood holes. Maybe the "felt" i saw were just big dust bunnies.... Is it likely that the internal exhauster valves are the same as the external ones?

    Comment


    • Organfella
      Organfella commented
      Editing a comment
      Those are normally similar to the exhauster valves on the feeders. A piece of soft flat leather sometimes re-inforced with a solid piece of wood, working in the opposite to the feeder flaps. Nico

    #36
    So as of today, the restoration of my Adler is pretty much done. Considering it entered the house on Labor Day (9/2), that's not so bad eh? I do have to level some of the keys a bit but otherwise, the case is fully restored with matching spinels, and the carved scroll work is fully intact! There is one missing chair rail piece on the bass side missing, but it's not obvious ... so. Additional pictures are provided here -- i'll need to update my photos on the organ catalog site.
    The scroll work replaced! i used poplar though i did have a red oak version scroll sawed out just in case...

    Comment


      #37
      Here's the updated google drive folder with all of the completion photos.
      To use Google Drive, you need to use a supported web browser. Learn what a browser is, which browser you use, and how to update to the latest version. Option

      Comment


        #38
        John - that is a massive amount of work. Congratulations on the success - and I hope we get a chance to hear the instrument in the near future.

        That splinter in the reed was quite a surprise. What method did you use to wash the reeds? Say, do you have any pictures of the repairs you made on the air system? Leather work, bellows covers, hinges, valves, etc.. That's always the hardest part of the restoration.

        Thanks.
        Tom M.

        Comment


          #39
          Tom - i used an ultrasonic cleaner i bought at Harbor Freight (with the heater element). So i used the warm setting with white vinegar and a bit of dishwashing soap. Based on what I saw regarding the splinter, when the pittman holes were drilled on this unit, there was a lot of leftover wood shards laying around in there - so i used a narrow wire brush to clean these out while i had the reeds out.
          As it turned out, the bellows, etc., seem to be in fine shape - not sure but it's possible these have been restored previously perhaps. I didn't have to do anything with the mutes - even though it appeared that some of the leather at the very edges was worn, they all worked fine! I have pictures on the google drive link there with how i replaced all of the old felts and fabric (not leather) on the reed valves. I replaced them with red felt and leather as recommended in previous posts. Let me know if you have issues with the google drive album.

          Comment


            #40
            FInally -- is you tube the best approach for posting actual performances on the organ? i can work up a few and post accordingly here.

            Comment


              #41
              Here are some straight forward before/after pics. Is the link i posted previously for google drive bringing up the actual Organ folder, or something else (like the main directory?) I'm trying to just post the specific folder with the several dozen organ pics...

              Comment


                #42
                Here is some detail re: the scroll work.... I did a pattern of the one 1/2 of the work that had survived whatever turmoil this case had experienced at some point in the past, and sent it to a scroll saw specialist who cut two samples, one in poplar, and one in red oak. I had work carving tools from like 20 years ago that I never really did much with - so I got on You Tube, found the best way to sharpen and strop them, and then set about duplicating the existing scroll. It took me a few hours and I have what you see here. Since i had the ENTIRE piece redone, I basically cut out all of the old, and simply trimmed the new to fit carefully. Then i secured it from the back side, along with a piece of blue cloth as usual. Since i re felted the stops with RED feld instead of the original navy blue, I used blue for the cloth behind the scroll, as opposed to the magenta colored material that appears to have been there before (there were a few scraps intact).

                Comment


                  #43
                  Here is the work done on the stops ... these were tricky in that removing them from the stop board was a trial and error deal. I managed to get all the forks back in correctly the first time I guess... I used trumpet valve felt washers from a local music shop as opposed to trying to cut out my own. Due to the thickness, however, I had to widen the gaps between the knobs and the rods. Then I also lined the stop holes in the board accordingly.

                  Comment


                    #44
                    And here is the final view for today regarding the reed valve restoration process. Given the terrible shape of many of the felts (and these didn't use leather but a rubberized thin fabric), I took the many recommendations herein to heart and purchased adequate felt and sheepskin leather to replace the works. I removed the old material, cleaned /sanded mildly on a belt sander, and set about re-attaching the felt first and then the leather. I did one at a time, and cut it immediately. Trying to do multiples (using some sort of weight) as noted in the Primer i was sent weeks back, seemed to not work well, as the cutting wheel couldn't slice in between adjacent pallets well. So i would apply the hide glue to the stick, over turn it onto the felt, wait a few seconds, and slice it away. Once all 61 were done, i then repeated the process with the leather, securing the suede side to the felt, with the smooth side facing the reeds. I used "dot's of glue as indicated for the leather operation. I reassembled them all, and upon testing, all cyphers, and other anomalies vanished! If you can see the pencil lines drawn across these pallets, you'll note that they don't appear to line up properly. I have no idea why this is, as I replaced them in the order i found them.

                    Comment


                      #45
                      here are some you tube links to a few tunes I came up with this afternoon...
                       

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X