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Thread: L122

  1. #11
    fff Fortississimo enor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpine View Post
    I think you mean 'old stock'...
    No I don't. Genteq, for instance, still makes them:

    https://www.genteqmotors.com/Product...DC_Capacitors/
    Current organs: AV, BC, A-100
    Current Leslies: 22H, 142, 147, 760
    Organs in the past: L-100 (several), M-100 (x2), T-100, E-100, CV
    Other keyboards: Roland FP-4, Yamaha DX7, Yamaha TX81Z, Yamaha Motif ES Rack, Korg Krome, Novation Mininova

  2. #12
    ppp Pianississmo eric appla's Avatar
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    hi guys, I already purchased new run capacitor 1.5uF/600V, the new type with screw and will replace the original one. Since it is oscillating I take it this will cure some of the problems. Regarding the rectifier tube comment, it's been a while I dealt with those but don't they just blow fuses if bad? It won't cause hum or would it? I'll have a look with oscilloscope on amount of ripple after each capacitor but if it'll be similar to the last L100 I worked on those Mallory cans will be past their best.

  3. #13
    mp Mezzo-Piano Jyvoipabo's Avatar
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    Hello,

    In 230V50Hz it is a (hard to find) 1μ25 which requires the assembly of 2 capacitors in series with a resistor added on one.

    If this capacitor is bad either : the motor does not start / growls / creates a ground fault / rarely oscillations.

    The value of old electrolytic capacitors increases with time. Between 100 and 150% there is no roblem.

    As it was said, you have to start with the oil and cleaning all the contacts and check ground circuit. If you have a tube tester it's good to check the tubes.

    JP

  4. #14
    fff Fortississimo enor's Avatar
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    I use this type. 1.2uF is close enough (within the original tolerance span)

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/CBB61-450V-...LH_TitleDesc=0
    Current organs: AV, BC, A-100
    Current Leslies: 22H, 142, 147, 760
    Organs in the past: L-100 (several), M-100 (x2), T-100, E-100, CV
    Other keyboards: Roland FP-4, Yamaha DX7, Yamaha TX81Z, Yamaha Motif ES Rack, Korg Krome, Novation Mininova

  5. #15
    ppp Pianississmo eric appla's Avatar
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    i made a typo, it's 1.25uF I bought, it was just over 1EUR from local parts shop

    https://www.comarcond.com/wp-content...MKA-MK-450.pdf

  6. #16
    mp Mezzo-Piano Jyvoipabo's Avatar
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    Hello,

    The original capacitor ratings is :
    1.25μF +/- 5%
    660VAC

    I don't believe a 450V is enough.
    https://www.organforum.com/forums/sh...-run-capacitor

    Static noise reduction : Because the cradle of the motor is made of rubber, add an extra ground wire to the frame.

    JP

  7. #17
    fff Fortississimo enor's Avatar
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    One must also take into account that capacitor technology has come a long way since the 60s. It may very well be that 660V caps were the cheapest alternative available back in '61 when the L100 was launched.

    230VAC (sine) peaks at 324 Volts, so a 450V still has some headroom. Is the headroom big enough? Well, that's always debatable, but the caps I use are designed for 230VAC ceiling fans which is actually a very similar scenario to a tone generator motor from an electrical point of view, and they work fine there. And the Hammonds I've fitted these in have had no issues so far.

  8. #18
    p Piano geoffbrown's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    The ebay capacitors rated at 440vac work just fine and are very low cost , where I live the line voltages can vary between 220v up to 260v and those ebay caps are still working|

  9. #19
    mp Mezzo-Piano Jyvoipabo's Avatar
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    I just wanted to warn you that the voltage across the capacitor is not 230VAC.
    It is much greater. Especially at startup.
    You could check it by measuring.

    Engines someone took as an example are not synchronous and have not 2 identical winding. The start winding is smaller.

    The hammond engine have 2 identicals windings.
    The 660V rated capacitor was not mistaken over 230VAC +/-10% power.

    JP

  10. #20
    mp Mezzo-Piano PGR's Avatar
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    Also Before you put the motor back in and connect it to the TWG look for and exploded bearing on either end of the motor. You can fix them easy and it is usually what happens to them ...they are old and after long use one end ot the other will give in. so here is a comment I put onto another thread some time ago about how to go about this fix if it is a proble,

    "Stop oiling the darn thing...mine had the same problem here is how to fix it. On each end of the motor shaft is a brass compressed bearing that the shaft (armature turns on ) there is a spring inside the compression that holds the brass bushing in place. one of these compressions has let go and exploded on the shaft. All the parts are there you just need to re compress the bearing and fold the housing over on the inside washer of the compression. thats the idea here is what I did.
    removed the motor. Look carefully in both ends of the motor to determine if you can see a spring along the center of the armature. if you can that end has exploded and needs to be recompressed. carefully remove the screws and pull the end off the armature. reassemble the compression bearing and using a large C CLAMP re compress the brearing. When you have the inside washer seated enough it will be below the lip of the housing. now its time to carefully hammer over the lip of the houseing - I used a chisel and hammer to do this - the metal is soft so don't bash it Now reassemble the end cap to the motor. As you do this you will be able to roll the bearing so it is inline (takes a couple of trys) If you re assemble and the motor does not turn the bearing is out of alignment - so remove the cap and roll the bearing until it is in alignment. Motor will keep spinning when tested with your fingers. This is the only fix since these motors are not manufactured. you actually only need enough oil on the shaft at the bearing to allow the shaft to float on the bearing."
    Practise the theory...realize the practical
    Hammonds L100 /A100 /B3 Leslie 147 and 122 Yamaha E352 Key board driven in OVATIONS 15" 40 watt power

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