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Thread: jr20

  1. #11
    fff Fortississimo David Anderson's Avatar
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    1 members found this post helpful.
    Hammond and Leslie both use tinted lacquer for an even, consistent finish, sprayed on veneer. I'm not a refinishing expert, but that's what was used. It's hard to replicate that kind of finish without using the same thing they used, which is not to say that people haven't succeeded. But it's not a stained veneer with clear lacquer on top. The lacquer itself has a color.

    AFAIK, alcohol will not readily dissolve lacquer like it will dissolve shellac.
    I'm David. 'Dave' is someone else's name.

  2. #12
    ff Fortissimo Bobmann's Avatar
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    David is correct, it is tinted lacquer. This allowed them to use several different kinds of wood and this hides the difference in wood color.
    The most likely used wood is walnut veneer cabinet grade plywood. The trim is solid wood, usually the older cabinets use walnut and newer cabinets may use most anything like an Ash or Poplar.

    The original color is long gone, as the environment that the cabinet was in will change the color, could be either lighter or darker than original.

    Tinted lacquer is still available, it may be available at a specialty paint store or woodworker supply store.
    Getting it to match the rest of the cabinet will be a challenge, as it means custom match then you will need spray equipment.
    The tinted lacquer in rattle cans is very limited in color.

    I refinish these cabinets regularly, and rather than tinted lacquer, I stain and clear lacquer overcoat. It is just easier to get the stain and lacquer at the local store.
    Either way, the old finish needs to be removed in order to get decent results.
    Another reason for removing the old finish is that you have no idea what kinds of polish has been used over the years, and if any silicone based polish was used you will not get anything to stick without fish eye.

    I would advise strongly against sanding the old finish off. The veneer is very thin and you will sand the veneer off especially at corners and edges.
    If you want to just do the bench top, use stripper to get to the bare wood, wash with lacquer thinner and steel wool, then a very light sanding with 320 grit to remove remaining residue.
    The stain can be mixed to match closely; I use Minwax brand just because it is available at my favorite store. I use either "dark walnut" and "red mahagony" in a ratio of 3:1. If the finish I am matching is not really dark, I use "Special walnut" instead because it is lighter in shade.
    For ultimate wear resistance, you could use polyurethane instead of lacquer.

    Bob
    In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
    In reality, there is.
    '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
    H-324/Series 10 TC
    '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
    Look at some of my rescues:
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

  3. #13
    pp Pianissimo lcid's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Restore finish without stripping

    There have been several posts about using "Howard Restor-A-Finish" (sic) with photos and I have recently seen the product being sold at a large reputable antique store. And I agree with Bob's comments about using Minwax stains. I used a combination of the same three colors when I refinished my BC and Leslie.
    Lloyd

    Happily retired organist/pianist from the Church of the Brethren...Allen ADC-4300-DK.
    Primary occupation structural and civil engineering.
    Home...Wurlitzer (ES) Orgatron Series 20 Serial #11608 (retrofitted with MIDI and VPO-Hauptwerk) with Leslie 44.
    Hammond BC Serial #5070 with Leslie 31A tallboy tone cabinet
    A.L. Swan antique pump organ (C.1852) Cherry Valley NY
    Member of the Lutheran Church (LCMS): traditional worship.

  4. #14
    p Piano Tonewheel's Avatar
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    I wonder if somewhere someone might come up with:

    1. The closest tinted lacquer formula that could apply to the major original Hammond colours, then post it in a sticky.
    2. The finish coat formula, which I think is more of a satin than a really shiny surface.

    Or is that just wishful thinking? U wonder this because when I look at my 2 rigs, there is depth and patina that I would never want to diminish.
    1955 B3, Leslie 21H and 147. Hammond A100 with weird Leslie 205. 1976 Rhodes. Wurlitzer 200A. Yamaha DX7/TX7. Korg M1. Yamaha C3 grand, 67 Tele blond neck, Les Paul Standard, PRS 24, Gibson classical electric, Breedlove acoustic electric, Strat, P Bass, Rogers drum kit, Roland TD 12 digital drums, Apollo quad, older blackfaced Fender Twin, other amps, mics and bits and pieces cluttering up the "studio."

  5. #15
    ff Fortissimo muckelroy's Avatar
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    One guy on the forum who has used spray lacquer in the recent past is planman1954, and his thread is here:

    https://www.organforum.com/forums/sh...project/page13

    You might reach out to him if you want to know what he used, but even he appears to have asked for help to do the spraying. I wouldn't trust myself to spray finish something without lost of practice first, or obtaining help from someone experienced.

    Since it's just a box, if you are hard-set on refinishing, you can easily use the products Bobmann recommended without fussing with spray lacquer.

    If you're refinishing an organ along with this tone cabinet, then I can see why you'd want them to match. The JR-20 sounds weird, even when working properly. What model of organ is it pairing with?

  6. #16
    ff Fortissimo Bobmann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonewheel View Post
    I wonder if somewhere someone might come up with:

    1. The closest tinted lacquer formula that could apply to the major original Hammond colours, then post it in a sticky.
    2. The finish coat formula, which I think is more of a satin than a really shiny surface.

    Or is that just wishful thinking? U wonder this because when I look at my 2 rigs, there is depth and patina that I would never want to diminish.



    Because every cabinet has aged in a different environment, even if you could match the original color, there is very little chance that it would match a cabinet today.

    The finish is the tinted lacquer, probably gloss. I doubt that they put another coat or 2 of clear over it, but if they did it would have most certainly been lacquer.
    It was rubbed out after curing which leaves it with a finish that is glossier than satin, but less than gloss...if that makes sense.
    I have simply rubbed gloss finish with oil and 00000 steel wool to lessen the high gloss but leave a sheen.

    Bob
    In theory, there is no difference between theory and reality.
    In reality, there is.
    '54 C-2 & Pair of 122 Leslies
    H-324/Series 10 TC
    '35 Model A (Serial# 41) with a 21H
    Look at some of my rescues:
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/58226398@N03/albums

  7. #17
    p Piano Tonewheel's Avatar
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    Very helpful. You are one of THE forum gurus! (in my opinion).
    1955 B3, Leslie 21H and 147. Hammond A100 with weird Leslie 205. 1976 Rhodes. Wurlitzer 200A. Yamaha DX7/TX7. Korg M1. Yamaha C3 grand, 67 Tele blond neck, Les Paul Standard, PRS 24, Gibson classical electric, Breedlove acoustic electric, Strat, P Bass, Rogers drum kit, Roland TD 12 digital drums, Apollo quad, older blackfaced Fender Twin, other amps, mics and bits and pieces cluttering up the "studio."

  8. #18
    ppp Pianississmo hank's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by muckelroy View Post
    One guy on the forum who has used spray lacquer in the recent past is planman1954, and his thread is here:

    https://www.organforum.com/forums/sh...project/page13

    You might reach out to him if you want to know what he used, but even he appears to have asked for help to do the spraying. I wouldn't trust myself to spray finish something without lost of practice first, or obtaining help from someone experienced.

    Since it's just a box, if you are hard-set on refinishing, you can easily use the products Bobmann recommended without fussing with spray lacquer.

    If you're refinishing an organ along with this tone cabinet, then I can see why you'd want them to match. The JR-20 sounds weird, even when working properly. What model of organ is it pairing with?
    A 1956 (S/N 64524) B3 and a JR-20 S/N 78557. The JR sounds weird? how so?

  9. #19
    ppp Pianississmo hank's Avatar
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    My B3, finish doesn't look all that bad, whatcha think? A small chip on the right side of lower manual, that's about it. All the scratches came out with Howards in Mahogany. Inside of the organ is pristine, not even any dust to speak of! Lady really took care of it, and so will I.

    hank
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
    pp Pianissimo lcid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hank View Post
    My B3, finish doesn't look all that bad, whatcha think? A small chip on the right side of lower manual, that's about it. All the scratches came out with Howards in Mahogany. Inside of the organ is pristine, not even any dust to speak of! Lady really took care of it, and so will I.

    hank
    The finish looks beautiful to me! Looks like Howard was an easy fix and I'd enjoy seeing more photos of your work.
    Lloyd

    Happily retired organist/pianist from the Church of the Brethren...Allen ADC-4300-DK.
    Primary occupation structural and civil engineering.
    Home...Wurlitzer (ES) Orgatron Series 20 Serial #11608 (retrofitted with MIDI and VPO-Hauptwerk) with Leslie 44.
    Hammond BC Serial #5070 with Leslie 31A tallboy tone cabinet
    A.L. Swan antique pump organ (C.1852) Cherry Valley NY
    Member of the Lutheran Church (LCMS): traditional worship.

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