Fixed it 'till it broke. What now?

[indianajo]

The H-100 motor can safely use Hammond quality oil, or other 5w to 10 w oils. It is not tern-plated (lead tin) and doesn't have pickups that can be shorted out by dendrites the way the TG can be. Don't over oil, as oil leaking inside can get between the rotor and stator and slow it down. "12 drops" in each end cap once a year.
The scanner is tern plated and has capacitor plates inside that could be shorted by dendrites. So use only hammond quality oil on it. That is 5 w single viscosity oil with no detergent and no zinc or aluminum additives. If you are in Dakota, I've tested the the mineral oil laxative from Meiers discount center, and found it to be all of the same viscosity. That is, 8 hours over low flame in a stainless steel cup, the oil doesn't decrease in volume. Since there is no zinc in the lable, zinc is a food suppliement, and mineral oil laxative is regulated by the FDA, there won't be any zinc in it. Test every bottle, suppliers might change and the new oil might be solvent plus sludge. Or buy the stuff from tonewheelgeneral.com bborgan.com, or hammond-suzuki.com
The square scanners use a felt resevoir in a tub, with a string running down to the bearing for the oil to move by capillary action, same as the TG bearings. This string, however, gets broken a lot by blind waving around of the oil spout.
Schematic diagram of the wiring is in the service manual on archive.org. Another copy of the schematics is at captain-foldback.com Between the two I can usually read it; the cut up one is hard to follow the wires across boundaries, and the complete one is fuzzy.
It is a two-phase motor with the second phase produced by the capacitor, which shifts the phase. If it is slow with a new in spec capacitor, the TG could need additional lubrication. It is difficult to over oil the TG, it just squirts out the end and drips if you do. If Mr Break-it took away the connector, it is a TE connectivity (AMP) Mate-n-Lock II 250 VAC rated one sold by newark and mouser. I had to replace a pin in mine the shorted motor capacitor (1997) burned the yellow wire insulation off all the way back to the connector block. I crimp any new pins with 5 movements of a slip joint plier instead of the $187 crimp tool.
If you'd put the model number in the thread title, I and Bobmann may have responded sooner. Not a lot of H100 fans here. I'm one, I own three of them and play mine in preference to the A100. Note my favorite H100 #9574 has 71 new electrolytic capacitors to improve the sound deteriorated badly by age. I'm thinking of diving into replacing the 110 harp capacitors this winter, too. You can hear #9574 using a microphone on inbojat.tumblr.com the "yellow bird" track. Other tracks to follow after the harp capacitors are replaced to eliminate the faint continuous whistle- F#6 I believe, bleeding through a leaky e-cap.

[jdoc]

"Zoom Spout" turbine oil, (read the label), several brands, at industrial suppliers and likely big box lumber stores

[Wes]

Any chance the new Motor is wired on wrong? There is probably info on the plate re wire colours.

[Stanislao]

The motor is almost certainly wired wrong, somewhere. Mr. Hack Repair Man "rebuilt" the motor, I wouldn't put it past him to put a magnet in backwards.



I called up an old friend of mine, a farm kid turned metallurgical engineering major who can fix seemingly anything. As an intelligent human being, he spent two solid hours looking at the wiring, testing everything and consulting this wire diagram. Only then did we break out the soldering iron , unsolder two wires from the cap, and resolder them to the opposite poles.

The red wire connected to the motor is soldered to one seemingly unlabeled capacitor pole, the motor's black wire to the opposite pole, and the motor's grey wire runs to a series of connectors that we didn't mess with. The three remaining red wires are all seemingly using a pole on the capacitor as nothing more than a handy place to solder stuff. One goes to the fuse, the other pair to the same point on a connector.

Motor now spins, but backwards. Haven't run the motor while hooked to anything. The motor sometimes starts on its own, but sometimes has to be push-started. From the sound that the motor makes on its own, I suspect that the rotations per minute are varying considerably. Again, I've not dared to connect the tonewheel generator or vibrato box to the motor.

My friend suspects that the capacitor is has gone bad, it is now reading two microfarads instead of three. He also thinks reversing the positions of the grey and red wires will rotate the motor in the correct direction.

I intend to pick up a replacement cap from a local electronics store tomorrow, perhaps consulting with the people there. Depending on what you guys say, I might copy the old capacitor's wiring onto the new, with the red and grey wires reversed.

[indianajo]

The motor has red, black, and grey. The harness has blue, grey, and yellow.
Harness grey is generally neutral of the AC cord, although since the original plug was not polarized, neutral or hot was random.
Blue wire in the harness comes from the hot side of the AC cord solder jumpered in the power chassis, then out the Amphenol round plug to the 6 pin AMP plug. There blue is jumpered to a black wire running up to the on switch, then black back to the 6 pin AMP plug. There the return hot AC turns to yellow.
Two yellow and one motor red go to one capacitor terminal. As it is an AC capacitor, it doesn't matter which one. The other capacitor terminal goes to the black of the motor.
The second yellow wire goes back to the 6 pin amp plug where it goes to a harness yellow that goes back down to the power chassis to power the transformer. There the yellow is also relayed through a big AMP plug to the amplifier chassis, where it goes out to the tone cabinet connector.
There are only 3 wires out of the motor. The grey motor wire goes to the AMP connector where it is connected to the grey from the power chassis.
A fuse should go in the blue wire between the amp chassis and the AMP 6 pin connector.
I used this motor capacitor: http://www.newark.com/genteq/97f5503...ilm/dp/13M4405
You have to split the capacitor cover a little with a hacksaw to get it to fit on the new one. It is a film capacitor rated 370 VAC made in Mexico, so it should last forever.
If you have more than three wires out of the motor it may not be a hammond origin motor. There are so many H100 scrapped on e-bay, getting another shouldn't be expensive.