Hammond M3 modifications and chop

[ReefersMcNasty]

I have an M3 that is in mostly working condition, some draw bars don't work and the percussion is very quiet. I'm looking to make those repairs, chop it, drop the lower manual down an octave, add foldback and add a 1/4 output. I know nothing about electrical work so I have no idea where to begin. I'd like to find someone that can do it for me or at least help me do it. Any info is greatly appreciated. I'm in Rochester, NY if anyone knows of anyone that may be able to help.

[sfp1954]

Drawbar issues are usually from the wire at the back of the drawbar breaking off from metal fatigue.
Just check to make sure each drawbar has its wire attached and re-solder any broken ones.

If you really want all those mods and can't do the work yourself be prepared to spend $800-1000 minimum.
You could probably buy a used A100/B3/C3 chop for that.

The easiest thing to do is lower manual octave drop as you only need to remove the cover above your knees.
Full foldback on the upper manual requires removing the upper manual (and that means unsoldering all 79 tonewheel wires).
If you only use 888 and 8888 full foldback won't do anything as the first five drawbars/busbars are already complete.
Recapping the TWG might be more useful.
You should check the volumes on the individual tone wheels (just hook up a mic and record each key on the 16', 8' and 4' drawbars.
If you see a sudden dropoff that continues onward at the point where the tonewheels start using filter caps - then you are losing all your high end from paper wax filter caps that have drifted out of spec.
The filter caps start at tonewheel #44 - the third G on the 16' drawbar.

You might want to consider two SL-161's (or similar), an old Powerbook Aluminum Mac and either B4 II or Virtual B3.
Of if you have an Intel Mac : Native Instruments Vintage Organs.

Unless you can do the work yourself - or the cabinet is falling apart - chops are not usually not a worthwhile idea.