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Run motor flywheel removal?

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  • Run motor flywheel removal?

    I have a run motor where the flywheel-side bronze bearing is seized to the shaft and the bearing is able to turn inside its mount. If the flywheel can be removed I can probably re-swage the bearing, but how on earth do you pull the flywheel? I've swapped pinions before using a puller I fabricated, but the flywheel seems a harder puzzle :) Thanks!
    Tom in Tulsa

    Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720

  • #2
    If you figure this out, please share. The last time I tried, I broke the motor shaft. But then again, I've never met a run motor bearing that I couldn't free up with enough naphtha, oil, time, and axial exercise.

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    • #3
      I am not familiar with the exact problem however if there is a possibility to add heat to the flywheel it will expand and will make the hole bigger, this loosening it from the shaft.
      Hammond: Colonnade 333270, Aurora Classic 246100, Aurora classic 132172 two of them

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      • #4
        Flywheel puller,gear puller.Common on the shelf auto supply or box store.Add some heat and apply a 3/8" drive.
        A100/251 A100/147 A102/222 B2/142 BV/147 BCV/145 M3/145 M102/145 M111/770 L101/760 T222/HL722 M111/770 no B3/C3!

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        • tpappano
          tpappano commented
          Editing a comment
          The design of the flywheel doesn’t seem to be compatible with a normal puller (?)

      • #5
        Originally posted by tpappano View Post
        I have a run motor where the flywheel-side bronze bearing is seized to the shaft and the bearing is able to turn inside its mount.
        I just had this a while ago on the the last M3 I resurrected. I worked it endlessly and couldn't free it up. Per Bobmann I used a small hammer and tapped it from the front and back of the shaft and after a few hits it was freed up. Back in the organ it went and zero problems since.

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        • #6
          Good tips, I think I’ll unmount the scanner and try the hammer tap method first and see what happens. My ‘plan b’ is to pull the rotor and bearing plate from a motor that has a bad coil, and swap it in. I did build a custom puller a while back that will work on the pinions :)
          Tom in Tulsa

          Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720

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          • #7
            I unmounted the scanner, applied some solvent and gently tapped the motor shaft back and forth. It loosened right up! The scanner is sticky, I’ll open it up and apply solvent and oil. Should be fine, thanks all!
            Tom in Tulsa

            Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720

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            • #8
              Yep. That’s what I meant by axial exercise. I only ever needed to pull a gear for coil swapping, and have never had to do it for lubrication reasons. You have to be careful to not break the shaft. It can be brittle.

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              • #9
                Originally posted by tpappano View Post
                I unmounted the scanner, applied some solvent and gently tapped the motor shaft back and forth. It loosened right up! The scanner is sticky, I’ll open it up and apply solvent and oil. Should be fine, thanks all!

                Glad it is working. Bobmann helped me out on that tip a while ago...

                George Fish taught me on scanner rebuilds to sand off the galvanized material on the "nubs" that line up the phenolic plates. That it is the shortest path for zinc whiskers to form and short. I don't think moisture is going to be a rust problem inside so I can't see a downside. If you are worried about that then shoot some primer on top of it.

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