I have a run motor where the flywheel-side bronze bearing is seized to the shaft and the bearing is able to turn inside its mount. If the flywheel can be removed I can probably re-swage the bearing, but how on earth do you pull the flywheel? I've swapped pinions before using a puller I fabricated, but the flywheel seems a harder puzzle :) Thanks!
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Run motor flywheel removal?
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I am not familiar with the exact problem however if there is a possibility to add heat to the flywheel it will expand and will make the hole bigger, this loosening it from the shaft.Hammond: Colonnade 333270, Aurora Classic 246100, Aurora classic 132172 two of them
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Originally posted by tpappano View PostI have a run motor where the flywheel-side bronze bearing is seized to the shaft and the bearing is able to turn inside its mount.
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Good tips, I think I’ll unmount the scanner and try the hammer tap method first and see what happens. My ‘plan b’ is to pull the rotor and bearing plate from a motor that has a bad coil, and swap it in. I did build a custom puller a while back that will work on the pinions :)Tom in Tulsa
Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720
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I unmounted the scanner, applied some solvent and gently tapped the motor shaft back and forth. It loosened right up! The scanner is sticky, I’ll open it up and apply solvent and oil. Should be fine, thanks all!Tom in Tulsa
Fooling with: 1969 E100, 1955 M3, 1963 M100, Leslie 720
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Yep. That’s what I meant by axial exercise. I only ever needed to pull a gear for coil swapping, and have never had to do it for lubrication reasons. You have to be careful to not break the shaft. It can be brittle.
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Originally posted by tpappano View PostI unmounted the scanner, applied some solvent and gently tapped the motor shaft back and forth. It loosened right up! The scanner is sticky, I’ll open it up and apply solvent and oil. Should be fine, thanks all!
George Fish taught me on scanner rebuilds to sand off the galvanized material on the "nubs" that line up the phenolic plates. That it is the shortest path for zinc whiskers to form and short. I don't think moisture is going to be a rust problem inside so I can't see a downside. If you are worried about that then shoot some primer on top of it.
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